Spelt, rye, whole wheat sourdough

Spelt, Rye, and Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread

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As the chill of winter sets in, I find myself drawn to this recipe. Vibrant and flavorful, healthful yet comforting, it is excellent at combating the cold weather, warming both your body and your kitchen at the same time. Winter urges me to bake anything and everything bread more than any other season. There’s nothing more wonderful to me than the aromas of freshly baked bread from a hot oven in contrast to the snow and howling wind outside. For this bread, I baked, tweaked, and baked again, ultimately landing on a mixture of white, spelt, rye, and whole wheat flours that produced a very craveable, satisfying sourdough bread that I cannot stop baking.

Part of this loaf’s abundant flavor is due to a little more sourness than you find in my typical recipe: a welcome addition that elevates the wholesome character of the crumb and crust. Sure, it has all the usual zest that comes with increasing the whole grain percentage, but it also has something more.

But what? What is that “something”? Is it the crust’s texture or the crumb’s tenderness altering my taste, or is it the perception of the loaf itself? Sometimes I wonder if the full range of textures, colors, and flavors I experience are genuinely there–visible to my eyes, present on my palate–or if I manufacture them when I see something mouthwatering. Perhaps this is the same way a barista might salivate at the sight of a properly pulled espresso, the aroma conjuring that recent summer strawberry, the allusion of toffee or black licorice. That “something more” seems to evolve as the loaf cools, hardens, and matures—an ever-changing kaleidoscope of flavors and textures.

Spelt, rye, whole wheat sourdough crust topped with oats

Baking a loaf of sourdough seems to be the only thing that has this effect on me. I think it has something to do with the art of the craft, the work that goes into it, and the satisfaction that results. It’s like a woodworker sitting in their precisely constructed no-nail design chair, corners fitting just so and pieces curved where they’re to be curved, straight where they’re to be straight. The pleasure of a well-executed bread is undoubtedly more than the aesthetic of it; it is also in the culmination of a detailed, devoted process that amplifies everything. Tasting how every piece is in the right groove, how the flavors and textures shift like fragments of colored glass from one bite to the next, is exhilarating.

Of course, it’s likely all of this is simply a result of my obsession with baking naturally leavened bread. But! I do proclaim that this is a great recipe that will make those who eat it smile, and you may even spy a split-second closing of their eyes as they savor the moment. This little, often overlooked token is what I look for when my kids are eating, indicating they deeply enjoy something. And I imagine that this bread will push its way to the top of your baking priorities more often than not.

Flour Selection

I love the small addition of rye flour in this recipe–it’s something you also see in my Beginner’s Sourdough Bread recipe. Even in a small percentage, rye seems to bring loads of flavor and color to the crust. And this loaf is all about flavor.

I use whole grain Red Fife for the whole wheat part of this recipe, which adds significant character to this already flavorful bread. If you have Red Fife, I’d recommend it, but if not, any whole wheat variety will also work very well.

Whole grain spelt brings a nutty, almost sweet character to the flavor profile. I use spelt often because of this addition, and in this bread, even though it’s in small quantity, it’s still a significant contributor to the overall complex flavor profile.

The white flour I use in this recipe is medium protein at around 11-12%. This would be a typical all-purpose flour or a base white flour used for bread-making. If you wanted to increase the strength of this dough and bring additional flavor and nutrition, you could substitute this white flour for a high-quality type 85 flour.

Spelt, Rye, and Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread Baking Schedule

Baking Schedule

This sourdough bread recipe is made over two days, which gives the dough plenty of fermentation time, which results in a deeply complex and flavorful bread.

It’s also possible to bake this loaf all in a single day by allowing the dough to proof on the counter, shaped and covered, until the dough is puffy, relaxed, and passes the dough poke test.

Fully mature sourdough starter
My ripe spelt and wheat levain is ready to use in mixing.

Spelt, Rye, and Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread Recipe

If you want to make only a single loaf or scale this recipe up to make many more, see my guide to baker’s percentages to modify this formula.

Vitals

Total Dough Weight2,000 grams
Pre-fermented Flour5.3%
Levain in final dough16.6%
Hydration85.0%
Yield2 x 1000g loaves

Total Formula

The desired dough temperature for this recipe is 78°F (25°C).

WeightIngredientBaker’s Percentage
520gWhite flour (about 11.5% protein; Central Milling Artisan Baker’s Craft Plus)50.0%
260gWhole spelt flour (Central Milling Whole Grain Spelt)25.0%
208gWhole-grain wheat flour (Flourist Whole Grain Red Fife)20.0%
52gWhole-grain rye flour (Central Milling Whole Rye Flour)5.0%
781gWater 1 (levain and autolyse)75.0%
104Water 2 (mix)10.0%
20gFine sea salt1.9%
55gRipe sourdough starter, 100% hydration5.3%

Additional ingredients

Instant or rolled oats, for topping (optional)

Spelt, rye, and whole wheat crumb
The crumb on this bread is creamy and ultra-tender.

Spelt, Rye, and Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread Method

1. Prepare the levain – 9:00 a.m.

WeightIngredientBaker’s percentage
27gWhite flour50.0%
27gWhole spelt flour50.0%
55gWater 1 (levain)100.0%
55gRipe sourdough starter, 100% hydration100.0%

Mix the above ingredients in a jar and leave them covered at a warm temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), to ripen for 3 hours.

2. Autolyse – 11:00 a.m.

WeightIngredient
493gWhite flour
233gWhole spelt flour
208gWhole wheat flour
52gWhole rye flour
726gWater 1 (autolyse)
Hand mixing spelt, rye, and whole wheat dough
Mixing the dough for autolyse.

Warm or cool the autolyse water so that the temperature of the mixed dough meets the FDT (final dough temperature) of 78°F (25°C) for this recipe. Place all of the flours and water 1 in a large bowl. Use wet hands to mix until no dry bits remain; the dough will be shaggy and loose. Use a bowl scraper to scrape down the sides of the bowl to keep all the dough in one area at the bottom. Cover the bowl and place it near your levain for 1 hour.

 3. Mix – 12:00 p.m.

WeightIngredient
104gWater 2 (mix)
20gFine sea salt
164gRipe levain (from Step 1)

Add the salt and levain to the top of the dough in autolyse, and use a splash of water 2 to moisten. With wet hands, mix thoroughly. Add the remaining water if the dough feels cohesive and it can handle the rest. Next, knead the dough for a few minutes using either the slap and fold technique or folds in the bowl. For this dough, I kneaded for about 5 minutes until the dough smoothed and became elastic.

Transfer the dough to a bulk fermentation container and cover.

4. Bulk fermentation – 12:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. (3 1/2 hours)

At a warm room temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), bulk fermentation should take about 3 1/2 hours.

This dough will require 3 sets of stretches and folds during bulk fermentation. After the first 30 minutes, wet your hands, grab one side of the dough, and lift it up and over to the other side. Rotate the bowl 180 degrees and repeat. The rotate the bowl a quarter turn and stretch and fold that side. Rotate the bowl 180 degrees again and finish with a stretch and fold on the last side. The dough should be neatly folded up in the bowl. Cover and repeat these folds every 30 minutes for a total of 3 sets of stretches and folds. Then let the dough rest, covered, for the remainder of bulk fermentation.

5. Divide and preshape – 4:00 p.m.

After 3 1/2 hours, the dough should be well-risen in the bulk fermentation container and puffy to the touch. The edge where the dough meets the container should be domed downward, showing strength and rise.

Fill a small bowl with water and place it next to your work surface. Scrape the dough onto a clean counter. Divide the dough into two equal pieces and prehsape each into a tight round.

Let the dough rest, uncovered, for 20 minutes. This is a shorter bench rest because the dough will be looser and slacker than most breads, spreading faster than usual.

6. Shape – 4:50 p.m.

I like to top this spelt, rye, and whole wheat sourdough bread with instant or rolled oats, but this step is optional. Spread an even layer of rolled oats on a clean kitchen towel or sheet pan.

I love to shape this recipe as a long, tapered batard (oval). See my process for shaping a batard or watch me shaping below for a quick tutorial.

Flour the top of each preshaped round and your work surface. Using your bench knife, flip one round over onto the floured area and shape it into a batard. Using two hands, transfer the dough top-side down to the oats, gently rocking the dough back and forth so that the oats stick. Then, flip the dough and place it seam-side-up into a prepared proofing basket.

Repeat for the other preshaped round.

7. Proof – 5:15 p.m. to 9:00 a.m.

Cover the baskets with a large, reusable plastic bag and seal shut. Let proof overnight in the refrigerator.

8. Bake – 9:00 a.m. (the next day)

Due to the large size of these loaves, they may not fit inside of a typical Dutch oven or Combo cooker. I prefer to bake them directly on a baking surface and steam my oven. See my guide to steaming a home oven for bread baking for instructions.

Place an oven rack in the bottom-third of the oven. Preheat your oven with a baking surface inside to 450°F (230°C).

Take the proofing baskets out of the fridge, uncover them, and put a piece of parchment paper over the basket. Place a pizza peel or inverted baking sheet on top of the parchment and, using both hands, flip everything over. Gently remove the basket and score the dough. I like to score these long ovals with a single long slash or a double slash.

Spelt, rye, whole wheat sourdough
Spelt, rye, and whole wheat sourdough bread with double-score.

Slide the dough into the oven. Steam the oven by pouring ice into the preheated pan at the bottom of the oven. Bake for 20 minutes. Vent the oven of steam by removing the steaming pans.  Continue to bake for 35 minutes more. When done, the loaf should have an internal temperature of around 204°F (95°C), and the crust should be deeply colored.

Let the loaf cool on a wire rack for 3 to 4 hours before slicing. This bread will keep well for a week or more if stored properly.

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Spelt, rye, and whole wheat crumb

Spelt, Rye, and Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread

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  • Author: Maurizio Leo
  • Prep Time: 24 hours
  • Cook Time: 1 hour
  • Total Time: 25 hours
  • Yield: 2 loaves
  • Category: Sourdough, Bread
  • Cuisine: American
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Description

A flavorful—and wholesome—loaf of sourdough bread with whole spelt, whole rye, and whole wheat. 


Ingredients

Levain

  • 27g white flour (about 11.5% protein)
  • 27g whole spelt flour
  • 55g water
  • 55g ripe sourdough starter, 100% hydration

Autolyse

  • 493g white flour
  • 233g whole spelt flour
  • 208g whole wheat flour
  • 52g whole rye flour
  • 726g water

Mix (final dough)

  • 104g water
  • 20g fine sea salt
  • 164g ripe levain

Instructions

  1. Levain (9:00 a.m.)
    In a small bowl or jar, mix the Levain ingredients. Cover the jar and keep it at a warm temperature for 3 hours.
  2. Autolyse (11:00 a.m)
    In a mixing bowl, add the autolyse ingredients until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl and let rest for 1-hour.
  3. Mix (12:00 p.m.)
    Add the salt and levain to the top of the dough in autolyse, and use a splash of water to moisten. With wet hands, mix thoroughly. Add the remaining water if the dough feels cohesive and it can handle the rest. Next, knead the dough for a few minutes using either the slap and fold technique or folds in the bowl. For this dough, I kneaded for about 5 minutes until the dough smoothed and became elastic.Transfer the dough back to the bowl or to a container for bulk fermentation and cover.
  4. Bulk Fermentation (12:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.)
    This dough will require 3 sets of stretches and folds during bulk fermentation. After the first 30 minutes, wet your hands, grab one side of the dough, and lift it up and over to the other side. Rotate the bowl 180 degrees and repeat. Then rotate the bowl a quarter turn and stretch and fold that side. Rotate the bowl 180 degrees again and finish with a stretch and fold on the last side. The dough should be neatly folded up in the bowl. Cover and repeat these folds every 30 minutes for a total of 3 sets of stretches and folds. Then let the dough rest, covered, for the remainder of bulk fermentation.
  5. Divide and Preshape (4:00 p.m.)
    Use water and a wet hand or lightly flour your work surface (whichever you prefer) and scrape out your dough. Using your bench knife, divide the dough in half. Lightly shape each half into a round shape. Let the dough rest for 20 minutes, uncovered.
  6. Shape (4:50 p.m.)
    Lightly flour the top of your preshaped rounds and using floured hands, shape the dough into an oval (batard) shape, then place the dough in proofing baskets, seam side up.
  7. Proof (5:15 p.m. to 9:00 a.m. the next day)
    Cover proofing baskets with reusable plastic and seal. Then, place both baskets into the refrigerator and proof overnight.
  8. Bake (The next day, 9:00 a.m.)
    Preheat your oven with a baking surface inside to 450°F (230°C). When the oven is preheated, remove your dough from the fridge, score it, and transfer it to the preheated baking surface. Bake for 20 minutes with steam. After this time, vent the steam in the oven  and continue to bake for 35 minutes longer. When done, the internal temperature should be around 204°F (95°C). Let the loaves cool for 3 to 4 hours on a wire rack before slicing.

Notes

If you want to bake only a single loaf, divide all the ingredients in half.

What’s Next?

If you love the nutty, almost sweet flavor of spelt flour as I do, check out my whole grain spelt pan loaf which is 100% whole spelt.

If you want to use some more rye in your baking, check out our Light Deli Rye which uses a scalded rye porridge to bring even more flavor.

Buon appetito!

Picture of Maurizio Leo
Maurizio Leo
Maurizio Leo is the creator of the independent sourdough baking website The Perfect Loaf. His cookbook, The Perfect Loaf — The Craft and Science of Sourdough Breads, Sweets, and More, is a James Beard Award-winner and a New York Times bestseller. He lives in Albuquerque, NM, with his wife and two sons, where he's been baking sourdough for over a decade. He's been labeled "Bob Ross but for bread."

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335 Comments

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  1. Love this bread! Made it twice already, and in process for a new loaf as I type.

    One question- is there a way I could give it a slightly thinner, softer crust? It’s so difficult to slice, especially after sitting for a day.

    1. ha I was just about to ask the same thing. I really love it but have a hard time with intensely chewy crusts (not just this recipe). I’ve heard from a couple sources (and had decent results) with a hotter/quicker initial steam and wondering if Maurizio has any intel there.

    2. One way to soften the crust is to brush melted butter over the finished loaf. The crust will become more leathery rather than crunchy.

  2. If you are making only one loaf, does that alter
    The cooking time? And if it’s done completely in the Dutch oven does that alter the cooking time?

  3. I noticed that the recipe in the text calls for 30 minutes bake time with steam, but the recipe itself calls for 20 minutes with steam. My first loaf, with only 20 minutes (I was working from the printed recipe), didn’t develop the crust or bloom that I had hoped.

  4. I’m going to mix the levain the night before and use it in the morning. It’s 60 degrees overnight in my kitchen so I’ll have it out overnight. What do you think?

  5. Love this bread recipe! Baked it yesterday and am eating it today. Thank you for you book, your videos and your recipes!

  6. this is very similar to the loaf I made yesterday! I used a recipe from a baker in Ukraine. This combination of flours produces the most wonderful, tender crumb. Thanks very much for your take on this basic but versatile bread.

  7. When you shape the loaves and put in the basket “seam side down” that is the opposite way it’s normally done. Is that to keep the oats from absorbing into the dough?

    1. That’s opposite from how I shape and proof here, I always do seam side up (unless it’s a special bread of some kind or a pan loaf). There’s no mention of “seam side down” in this post!

      1. Maurizio, this is what it says copied and pasted from above …
        “Then, flip the dough and place it seam-side-down into a prepared proofing basket.
        Repeat for the other preshaped round.”
        7. Proof – 5:15 p.m. to 9:00 a.m

  8. Sounds great. I think I would a cold start for the bake. Probably about 50 minutes bake?
    It can be tough changing seasons. The half-way point between summer & winter requires thought.
    Thanks.

  9. Great bread! Made it with a few small changes. I used a little less spelt and added fine durum. I also added green olives and walnuts. It did not have a lot of oven spring, but in the fridge it gave a nice rise, so it turned out perfect, Thank you Maurizio!

  10. You say in your linked starter feeding article that it takes 10 hours (from 10am-8pm) from feeding until your start is ripe and ready to use to make a levain. And you start mixing the levain at 10am in this article, so does that mean you feed your starter at midnight the night before mixing the levain?

  11. Anyone have any advice for making this recipe with a stand mixer? I’m a little injured and I’m not sure how my wrist will hold up for to 10 minutes of slap and fold. What level of development should I be going for up front?

    1. I mix all my dough in a stand mixer. It does a great job. I then do three stretch and folds before the bulk -works beautifully.

  12. I’ve made this a few times Maurizio and love the rich color and moisture of the loaf. Both times, however I’ve had terrible oven rise. The dough goes slack in my combo cooker. Less hydration? More kneading to promote stronger dough? Thank you for any tips or advice.

  13. Hi, do I have to use store bought flours? I have this stone mill at home and all three types of grains too! should I just mill the whole grains according to recipe and use king Arthur’s bread flour for white flour?

  14. I’ve made this yummy bread a couple of times. It’s great. However, the recipe calls for using ALL the 164 g Levain, and I find that I can never transfer 100% of the levain from my container no matter how much I scrape it. (I got 156 g to transfer to the dough). Might that be why my crumb isn’t as ‘open’ as I’d like? I think I will try to change the levain to: 60g starter+30 g bread flour + 30 g spelt flour + 60 g water = 180 g levain. Then I should be able to get 164 g to transfer. Does that sound ok? Or any other suggestions to improve the crumb? The boule does rise nicely and it tastes great. [I don’t have a batard shaped Dutch oven]

    1. That’s not a problem, it’s common to have a little less end up in the final mix. If you want, you can definitely up the levain build a bit to cover any loss. You definitely want strong fermentation in the dough!

    2. my baking has really changed after I bought a challenger bread pan. I know it’s expensive, but a baker must have good tools! Something that has really helped my bread rise is the addition of a few ice cubes under the parchment I bake it on —this provides the needed steam. I am so pleased with the results!

  15. I want to make this loaf as written, except do the “work” Wednesday night, bake Friday night.

    Any thoughts the best way to achieve this? A long cold proof after shaping, or a two step process with the bulk ferment for 24 hours in fridge, then shape and cold proof? Thanks!

    1. Hey, Dustin! You could do a cold bulk (after about 2.5 hrs warm, on the counter) then take it out, divide, shape, let proof on the counter for 1 hour, then cold proof and bake the day after.

  16. Love your recipes, Maurizio.. I tried this interesting combo of flours this weekend, and am excited to taste it. It was very wet, but am becoming more comfortable with the high hydration recipes.. But I do have one question.. how do you know how much water your flour can handle? Is it just trial and error doing the same recipe many times? If your flour does not handle that much water, can you ever develop it enough using slap and fold or stretches?

  17. Finished up my 1st pair of loaves with this recipe this morning. I really thought this attempt was destined to be a failure. During slap and folds, I’d build up strength, then it would fall apart. After the pre-shape and bench rest, I had two thick pancakes. I shaped and proofed overnight. Tossed the 1st in my Dutch Oven without any expectations so was very pleasantly surprised when I lifted the lid after the early part of the bake. I had a very nice looking loaf. I cut into the 1st loaf after just an hour and it had an open crumb and wonderful taste. Not sure how it turned out so good, but happy that it did. Thinking a little less hydration next time, unless you have other ideas about why I couldn’t seem to build strength.

  18. Hi! I’ve made this bread 2 times now and LOVE the taste. I found though that after I finished cooking (tempt at 205-208) the bread is still moist inside. It is completely cooked and has a nice spring when I push the center of the loaf, but still ‘wet’. Is that normal for this bread?? I am cooking it at a lower temp because I don’t like my bottom to be too dark.

    1. Did you cut this bread early? Be sure to let it rest at least 24 hours as I discuss in the post before cutting it—if you cut too early the interior can be gummy.

      1. Did you mean cool 1-2 hours before slicing or a wait a full 24 hours? I don’t see where it says to wait 24 hours in the post

  19. Maurizio, could you add that the water is supposed to be warm into the table for the levain build by any chance? I completely missed that because it’s not prominent in the recipe!

    1. Hey, Natalie! The reason it’s not in there is that it might not always need to be warm… It depends on your kitchen! If your kitchen is cool, then yes, you’ll likely have to warm the water to reach the desired dough temperature listed in the recipe. Conversely, if your kitchen is very warm you might have to cool the water! Check out my guide to dough temperatures for more 🙂

  20. Hi Maurizio, Love your site – so informative. Looking forward to trying this recipe but just noticed that it asked for malted bread flour, I just have organic stoneground untreated white bread flour – 12.5% protein. Will this be okay, or should I try to source malt or add in some malted beer to replace some of the water. If the beer, can you advise on how much. Thanks so much.

    1. Thank you, Chris! Glad to hear it’s helped. I’d say you should be just fine without the malt addition. If your flour is suitable for bread then you should be good to go. Let us know how it turns out and happy baking!

  21. Hi Maurizio – thanks for another great recipe! I made this loaf yesterday, and the flavor is excellent. As I cut further into the loaf, I discovered cavernous holes right through the middle. A row of them, about quarter-sized, almost forming a horizontal line across the center. What do you think might have caused these? I bake a lot of sourdough (probably 10+loaves/week), and followed your instructions very closely. I haven’t had this happen before. The loaf had a decent amount of rise, about what I would expect from this combination of flours.

    1. Glad the flavor was nice, Rachel! Hmm. It’s hard to say without seeing photos, but it could have just been the way it was shaped + scored, or it could be a proofing issue. Since you’re experienced, it was likely just a shaping thing, that’s my guess!

  22. This is on my list of recipes to try. A friend gave me a 100% hydration rye starter. Would this be a good choice of starter for this recipe? I haven’t summoned up the courage to try it out yet. It seems so thick in comparison to my other starter. Also, i don’t have malted flour. Can I use regular bread flour and add diastatic malt powder or barley malt syrup in addition to the regular bread flour?

    1. Yes, that starter will do really well with this recipe (in fact, any starter will be fine, the levain we make will adjust things as necessary). If you have regular “bread flour” then it likely has malt already added—no need to add more! When making this, watch the hydration of this dough, which is a little on the high end. Hold back that reserve water and only add it in if you’re comfortable and the dough feels like it can handle it. Let me know how it goes, Helga, this is a fantastic bread!

      1. I tried this bread this weekend. It had its challenges! First of all, I should have heeded your advice and withheld 200 g of water rather than 100 g. I live in Canada so the flours I have access to are somewhat different than what you have at hand. Red Fife is a flour that we have ready access to so I was anxious to try this recipe. (I want to remind you that I am a relative “newbie” to sourdough baking, so still need to gain experience as to how a dough should behave at various stages of it development.) The autolyze seemed to be fairly stiff so I add more water than I probably should have. After 30 minutes, I added the levain and salt but no additional water. The dough was fairly wet but seemed to respond well to the slap and fold technique. The series of stretch and folds seemed to further strengthen the dough. I was happy with how the dough seemed to be developing but it proved to be very difficult to work with when it came time to divide and shape the dough. I had trouble deciding when bulk fermentation was done. I used 14″ batard bannetons which probably compounded the problem. (My technique was definitely not the best.) After the cold-delayed fermentation, I baked the loaves the following day, following the steaming procedures you outlined (steam with rolled towels and steam with lava rocks). All in all, the oven spring was better than I expected, but there is certainly room for improvement. So, all-in-all, I’m happy with the results but definitely need more practice working with higher hydration doughs.

        1. Sounds like you took the right steps there, Helga! It’s a challenging dough given the hydration, and you really have to dial it in for your flour. You have a good sense now for the dough, though, and further iterations should improve! The flavor of this bread is just so fantastic… In fact, I’m making it again today. I hope the next attempts go well and thanks for reporting back 🙂

  23. I mixed this yesterday and baked it this morning. This may have been the best tasting bread I have ever made! I didn’t get a very good oven spring, but the flavor is out of this world. (I tend to struggle with impressive spring for all of my bakes, so no shocker here.) For better or worse, I had to deviate from the recipe since I did not have enough spelt: I used about 1/3 of the called for spelt, then made up the rest of that portion with triticale. I also used the Mock mill to fresh mill the hard red berries. Using the slap and fold kneading was a fun change, rather than just doing stretch n’ folds. I did have to do slap and folds for about 25 minutes (vs. the 8 minutes mentioned in the recipe) to get the dough to tighten up, but that was probably due to my shortcomings here (wimpy levain or house temp or whatever). In the end, the dough felt very strong and held it’s shape very well. I definitely will be making this one again!

  24. I’d love to do some mix ins to this recipe. Some dried fruit and maybe walnuts. Any words of wisdom pls? Thanks Maurizio!

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