Sourdough 90-rye bread with cracked crust.

Sourdough 90-Rye Bread Recipe

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Mix whole dark rye flour and water with your hands, and you’re immediately plunged into an intense sensory experience. Earthy aromas swirl about as a dough texture that’s not unlike wet concrete starts to form. When the gray paste squishes and squashes through your fingers, you begin to hear whispers from somewhere in your head: How can this dense, shreddy coalescence make a cohesive, airy, and crusty loaf of sourdough rye bread?

This bread steals your attention—it’s all you’ll think about at breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

The answer, as is the case with many of the recipes you’ll find here, is fermentation. But also, while all rye flour lacks the same glutenous characteristics of wheat flour (especially high-protein white flour), it has pentosans. Pentosans are polysaccharides that absorb copious amounts of water, which steam in the oven during baking, puffing up the dough. They also form a gel network that helps trap the gaseous byproducts of fermentation. Finally, pentosans help the starches gelatinize during baking, which sets the soft, airy structure of rye-based bakes.

But the stars of the show with rye bread (as I’ve come to sincerely appreciate over the years I’ve baked it at home), are its captivating aroma and robust malty flavor. This bread steals your attention—it’s all you’ll think about at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. If you work from home, be prepared to hear its call from the kitchen when you least expect it. You’ll want it sliced thin and topped simply with good salted butter. You’ll want it to accompany your smoked salmon. You’ll begin to want it with just about anything you have in the fridge.

Here are a few important details I’ve found when making any sourdough rye bread:

  1. Use a large preferment; at least 40% of the total flour is fermented ahead of time
  2. When using whole-grain rye flour, increase the hydration dramatically for the best texture
  3. Employ a short bulk fermentation and short final proof
Sourdough rye bread sliced with butter.
This sourdough rye bread with salted European butter. Yum.

Instagram Walkthrough

Click play below to watch me make this sourdough rye bread on Instagram.

Why is a Large Preferment Necessary with Rye Bread?

One thing you’ll notice with this sourdough rye bread, and with almost every sourdough rye bread, is the incredibly large preferment relative to the total flour in the recipe. When making proper rye, it’s necessary to ferment a large percentage of the flour in the recipe beforehand.

Why? The large preferment ensures that when the dough is mixed (either by hand or machine), it has a high acidity (low pH) from the start. This low pH inhibits excessive amylase enzyme activity, preventing excessive starch breakdown, especially during baking. If rye doughs are not properly acidified with sourdough, this starch breakdown will result in bread with a gummy interior and a separation between the top crust and interior of the loaf.

In this recipe, I call for 45% of the total flour in the levain, and while this may seem like a lot compared to other sourdough recipes here at The Perfect Loaf, it’s actually rather moderate compared to other rye recipes such as a multi-stage vollkornbrot or 100% whole-grain rye like the roggenvollkornbrot in my cookbook

Finally, the large preferment also means that much of the flour in the recipe has fermented for a long period of time, which gives it time to build up copious amounts of organic flavor compounds. This flavorful mixture directly translates into the final dough.

Sourdough rye bread sliced open on cutting board.
A beautifully light rye with captivating aroma and mouthwatering flavor.

Flour Selection

This sourdough rye bread calls for whole dark rye (the same flour you might find in rugbrød, Danish rye bread). This means the flour is not sifted and contains the entire rye berry. Keeping the bran and germ brings increased flavor to the final loaf, specifically, a more earthy and robust flavor profile that’s a touch nutty. Additionally, by keeping the bran and germ, the resulting sourdough rye bread will have more fiber, be richer in nutrients, and keep you full longer.

In addition to the whole rye, I call for 10% high-protein white bread flour to help lighten the loaf just a bit. This higher protein flour brings a touch of airiness and openness to this rye, making for the perfect counterbalance to the dark, heavy rye. If you don’t have any high-protein white flour on hand, feel free to use medium-protein or all-purpose flour.

For a closer look at what makes rye so great (and so delicious), see The Whys of Ryes →

Sourdough 90-rye baking schedule.

Baking Schedule

The incredible thing about making sourdough rye bread with lots of rye flour and a large preferment is that the schedule is relatively short and the loaf is easy to make. The preferment (levain) runs overnight for 12 hours; the next day, after a short mix, fermentation time, and bake, you’ll have a loaf of rye bread cooling on your countertop.

Baked sourdough rye bread.
The stunning crust on freeform rye bread.

Sourdough 90-Rye Bread Recipe

This 1,200-gram loaf is large, but it’s the perfect size for a week of eating. If you want to scale the recipe up, including doubling the recipe, use baker’s percentages.

Vitals

Total dough weight1,200 grams
Pre-fermented flour45.0%
Hydration90.0%
Yield1 loaf

Total Formula

This total formula table shows all the ingredients you need to make this sourdough rye bread. In the Method, below, the ingredients will be broken down into exactly what you need for each step.

Desired dough temperature: 82°F (28°C).

WeightIngredientBaker’s Percentage
544gWhole rye flour (Central Milling Organic Whole Dark Rye)90.0%
60gHigh-protein white bread flour (~12.7% protein, King Arthur Bread Flour)10.0%
544gWater90.0%
11gFine sea salt1.8%
41gRipe sourdough starter, 100% hydration6.8%

Sourdough 90-Rye Bread Method

1. Prepare the levain – 9:00 p.m. (the day before mixing)

WeightIngredientBaker’s percentage
272gWhole rye flour100.0%
272gWater 1 (levain)100.0%
41gRipe sourdough starter, 100% hydration15.0%

Mix the ingredients in the chart above in a large jar or medium bowl and leave them covered with a lid or reusable plastic bowl cover at a warm temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), to ripen overnight. 

Note that this is a very large levain, so be sure your container can hold the ingredients plus a little room for expansion overnight. My favorite container for this size levain, seed soakers, and other large preferments, are 1-quart round Cambro Camwear containers.

2. Mix – 9:00 a.m. (the next day)

WeightIngredient
272gWhole rye flour
60gHigh-protein white bread flour
272gWater
11gFine sea salt
585gRipe levain (from Step 1)

In the morning, the levain should have risen and aerated significantly (see below). The aroma of the levain will almost be earthy with fruity overtones, similar in a way to dark red wine.

With this rye dough, it’s important to hit the desired dough temperature (DDT) of 82°F (28°C). This is warmer than typical bulk fermentation temperatures here at The Perfect Loaf, so warm the mixing water as necessary to ensure the dough ends up at that temperature (see the guide to dough temperatures for a handy chart and calculator for figuring out this water temperature).

Hydration Note: As with any bread recipe, you might need to adjust the dough’s hydration to suit your flour (especially if baking in a humid environment. When mixing, hold back a little of the water and add it only if the dough feels like it can handle it (look at the images below to help judge the consistency).

Place the flour, water (see note above), salt, and levain in a large bowl. With wet hands (or, my preference, using a sturdy dough whisk), mix thoroughly until no dry bits remain (see below, left). Rye does not benefit from mixing and kneading in the same way as wheat due to its low gluten content. Therefore, it’s only necessary to mix this dough until no dry flour remains.

Gather up the dough into a ball in the center of the mixing bowl (see below, right). Take the dough’s temperature to record the final dough temperature, and then cover.

3. Bulk Fermentation – 9:15 a.m. to 9:35 a.m. (20 minutes)

At a warm room temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), bulk fermentation should take 20 minutes (yes, it’s short!). Because this dough is primarily rye flour, it doesn’t benefit from strengthening and therefore does not require any stretches and folds during this time.

4. Shape – 9:35 a.m.

Note that if your final dough temperature was below 82°F (28°C), you might need to extend bulk fermentation. The dough is ready to shape when it has expanded (about 20%), has smoothed, and feels slightly puffy to the touch (see below).

Rye dough at end of bulk fermentation.
At the end of bulk fermentation, the dough will have risen and be puffy to the touch.

Prepare an 8-inch round proofing basket or banneton by liberally dusting on whole rye flour. Be sure the entire surface area of the basket’s interior is covered with flour.

This dough is very sticky, so it’s important to use enough rye flour on your work surface and handle the dough as little as possible. The more you handle the dough, the faster it absorbs the dusting flour and becomes sticky.

Flour your work surface, the top of the dough in the large bowl, and your hands. Scrape the dough onto the floured work surface with the floured top of the dough facing down.

Using your bench scraper, fold the left side of the dough over to about the middle. Then, use the scraper to fold the top (twelve o’clock) down to the middle. Repeat for the right side and bottom. You should now have a folded-up shape that loosely resembles a square in front of you.

Using your floured hands, flip the dough over and quickly and confidently round it until it gets into a rough ball shape. It does not have to be a perfect ball. Just do your best to gather it with as few motions as possible.

Using your bench scraper, scoop up the dough and place it seam-side-down into the prepared proofing basket.

Dust the top of the dough with more whole rye flour in an even layer. This will eventually crack open as the dough proofs. Cover the basket with a reusable plastic cover for an air-tight seal.

Dust the top of the shaped rye dough with rye flour.
Evently dust rye flour over the smooth top of the dough. This helps gauge rise and proper proof level during the dough’s second rise. It also looks beautiful when the bread is baked.

5. Proof – 9:45 a.m. to 10:45 a.m.

At room temperature, this rye sourdough bread will take 1 hour to proof.

During this time, preheat your oven with a baking stone or steel on a rack in the bottom third to 450°F (230°C).

6. Bake – 10:45 a.m.

The rye dough is ready to bake when it is puffy to the touch and has cracks that are at least ½-inch wide all over the top (see below).

Fully proofed rye sourdough bread dough ready for baking.
Fully proofed rye sourdough bread dough ready for baking.

Place a piece of parchment paper on a pizza peel or inverted baking sheet. Tip the dough out of the basket into your hand and quickly invert it over the parchment paper seam-side down. 

Slide the dough onto the preheated baking surface, steam the oven, and bake for 30 minutes. After this time, reduce the temperature of the oven to 400°F (205°C) and bake for 30 to 35 minutes longer, until the crust is deep golden brown and a knock to the bottom sounds a bit hollow.

Let the bread cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Then, to ensure the interior is fully set, place it inside a plastic bag or cover it with baker’s linen and let it rest for 24 hours before slicing.

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Sourdough 90-rye with crackled crust.

Sourdough 90-Rye Bread Recipe

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  • Author: Maurizio Leo
  • Prep Time: 14 hours
  • Cook Time: 1 hour
  • Total Time: 15 hours
  • Yield: 1 loaf
  • Category: Lunch, Dinner
  • Cuisine: German, Danish
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Description

This freeform rye is made with 90% whole-grain rye flour for an intensely aromatic and flavorful loaf of bread. Perfect for open-faced sandwiches or topped with good salted butter, it’ll be an instant favorite and a new staple in your baking quiver.


Ingredients

Levain

  • 272g whole rye flour
  • 272g water
  • 41g ripe sourdough starter (100% hydration)

Main Dough

  • 272g whole rye flour
  • 60g high-protein white bread flour
  • 272g water
  • 11g fine sea salt
  • All the levain

Instructions

  1. Prepare the levain – 9:00 p.m.
    Mix the Levain ingredients in a large jar or medium bowl and leave them covered with a lid or reusable plastic bowl cover at a warm temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), to ripen overnight.
  2. Mix – 9:00 a.m. (the next day)
    Warm the mixing water to 82°F (28°C). Place the flour, water, salt, and levain in a large bowl. With wet hands (or, my preference, using a sturdy dough whisk), mix thoroughly until no dry bits remain. Gather up the dough into a ball in the center of the mixing bowl (see below, right).
  3. Bulk fermentation – 9:15 a.m. to 9:35 a.m.
    At a warm room temperature, 74-76°F (23-24°C), bulk fermentation should take 20 minutes (yes, it’s short!). No stretches and folds are necessary.
  4. Shape – 9:35 a.m.
    Prepare an 8-inch round proofing basket or banneton by liberally dusting on whole rye flour. Be sure the entire surface area of the basket’s interior is covered with flour. Flour your work surface, the top of the dough in the large bowl, and your hands. Scrape the dough onto the floured work surface with the floured top of the dough facing down. Using your bench scraper, fold the left side of the dough over to about the middle. Then, use the scraper to fold the top (twelve o’clock) down to the middle. Repeat for the right side and bottom. You should now have a folded-up shape that loosely resembles a square in front of you. Using your floured hands, flip the dough over and quickly and confidently round it until it gets into a rough ball shape. Using your bench scraper, scoop up the dough and place it seam-side-down into the prepared proofing basket. Dust the top of the dough with more whole rye flour in an even layer. Cover the basket with a reusable plastic cover for an air-tight seal.
  5. Proof – 9:45 a.m. to 10:45 a.m.
    At room temperature, this rye sourdough bread will take 1 hour to proof. During this time, preheat your oven with a baking stone or steel on a rack in the bottom third to 450°F (230°C).
  6. Bake – 10:45 a.m.
    Place a piece of parchment paper on a pizza peel or inverted baking sheet. Tip the dough out of the basket into your hand and quickly invert it over the parchment paper seam-side down. Slide the dough onto the preheated baking surface, steam the oven, and bake for 30 minutes. After this time, reduce the temperature of the oven to 400°F (205°C) and bake for 30 to 35 minutes longer, until the crust is deep golden brown and a knock to the bottom sounds a bit hollow. Let the bread cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Then, to ensure the interior is fully set, place it inside a plastic bag or cover it with baker’s linen and let it rest for 24 hours before slicing.

Notes

Be sure to let the loaf cool at least overnight before cutting to ensure the interior isn’t gummy.

Hydration Note: As with any bread recipe, you might need to adjust the dough’s hydration to suit your flour (especially if baking in a humid environment. When mixing, hold back a little of the water and add it only if the dough feels like it can handle it (look at the images below to help judge the consistency).

Sourdough Rye Bread FAQs

Why did the top crust of my rye bread separate from the interior?

The top crust, also known as the “flying crust,” can separate if the levain (preferment) is not fully ripe when it’s mixed into the dough. Be sure the levain has a full 12 hours at a warm temperature to ripen, erring on the side of overly ripe than under. Another cause of the flying crust is dough that’s overhydrated. The dough should feel soft, wet, and sticky but not soupy or loose (more like hummus than pancake batter).

Can I use pumpernickel flour for this rye bread recipe?

My preference for this recipe is finely milled whole dark rye flour, but whole grain pumpernickel, which is usually milled a little more coarsely, will also work well. If using pumpernickel flour, consider increasing the hydration of the recipe by 2 to 5%.

Why is the interior of my rye bread gummy?

If rye bread is cut too early before it has had a chance to set fully, typically 24 hours or more, the interior can be gummy and stick to, or streak, the sides of your knife when slicing. Additionally, this can also happen if your dough was not properly acidified. This can happen if your levain was not fully ripe when it was used or your dough was not proofed long enough.

Is rye gluten-free?

No, rye is not gluten-free. While it does not have the same gluten content and characteristics of wheat flour, resulting in tall loaves of bread, it still contains gluten.

Can I bake this rye bread in a Dutch oven?

Yes, absolutely. Steam this dough the same way you would any other. This means keeping the lid on and tightly sealed for the first 20m of the bake. Keep an eye on the loaf near the end to ensure the bottom of the crust doesn’t get too colored in the Dutch oven (which can happen, especially with a longer bake time).

What’s Next?

For a rye pan loaf intended for Danish-style open-faced sandwiches, see my Rye Sourdough and Smørrebrød recipe.

Or, if you’re looking for a large freeform loaf with just a touch of rye, my Spelt, Rye, and Whole Wheat Sourdough Bread is loaded with flavor but light and airy.


Thank you to Michael Shulze (Brotbruder) for your help with this recipe!

Picture of Maurizio Leo
Maurizio Leo
Maurizio Leo is the creator of the independent sourdough baking website The Perfect Loaf. His cookbook, The Perfect Loaf — The Craft and Science of Sourdough Breads, Sweets, and More, is a James Beard Award-winner and a New York Times bestseller. He lives in Albuquerque, NM, with his wife and two sons, where he's been baking sourdough for over a decade. He's been labeled "Bob Ross but for bread."

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224 Comments

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  1. I made this rye bread today. Followed the recipe as it was written. Used a 100% white levain. Baked at 400 degrees for the entire cook time because I always end up with a too-crusty bottom. Haven’t cut it or tasted it but it sure smells good. The only problem is it was rather flat. My starter was very active. Not sure why it did not rise as yours did. Thank you.

    1. Sliced into it this morning (It was difficult but yes, I did wait) and it was delicious!!! Just flat. Suggestions for why?

  2. I made this yesterday. Not a high rise — as much as the 50-50 WW I also made this morning. Haven’t tasted it yet. Will cut it today and see how the crumb looks. Fun to experiment with net recipes.

  3. Maurizio, first time on your site. Love it !
    Should the temp be 82 degrees for the levain and the bulk? I have a proofing cycle on my oven that’s 85 degrees.
    TY

  4. Hi, Maurizio – Everything was hunky-dory until the “tip the dough out into your hand” moment, when everything instantly collapsed and started to tear apart. Thank God I’d placed a sheet of parchment over my hand, or it would never have made it into my spun-iron cloche. In your photos, your dough looks closer (stiffer) to my usual 50% rye loaves in terms of texture. This dough seemed considerably looser than that. Normally I use a whole grain Danko rye; in this recipe I used KA White Rye. I’m wondering if that were the problem. Anyway, we’ll see. Next time I’ll give it a shot with Danko rye. I’ll get it yet. Thanks for the recipe. Ken

    1. Hey Ken. Hmm, yes it sounds off to me, the dough should feel very cohesive when you tip it out. I wonder if yours overproofed or was over hydrated. Using “white rye” makes me think it was probably over hydrated (whole, dark rye will take more water). Let me know how the next one goes, Danko is awesome grain.

  5. Hi.
    Under Mixing in the short recipe at the end it reads “Warm the mixing water to 28’C”
    As I understand this (english is not my native language) the water should be 28’C. But as far as I understand, the DDT should be 28’C. During my baking, i warmed my mixing water to 39’C to get to the dough temperature of 28’C. It might be fewer misunderstandings if you clarified in the recipe?
    Again. Thank you for the wonderful recipe.

    1. You did exactly as you should. I recommend warming it to 28C as just a precaution to get it close to the DDT. By all means, heat it higher (or conversely, cool it) if necessary!

  6. Excellent advice for avoiding gumminess! I learned that the hard way with my first attempt at Nordic style Ryebread. But you have it to admit it’s really hard to resist the temptation of cutting into that newly-minted loaf…

  7. I have lived in Austria off and on for 20 years and have been trying to duplicate the bread we eat there. This is a very good recipe. My first attempt, from appearance only, looks more like a soda bread: it looks quite bubbly and spread out and the crust looks thick and not crisp. Will wait to judge until I have tasted, but I have high hopes this will be the bread I’ve been looking for. To give it a real German/Austrian flavor have you thought about adding Brot Gewürz (bread spice: equal parts ground caraway, coriander, anise and fennel?) My Austrian wife insists I put the spice in and I feel she’s right.

    1. Much better than I thought. Nice flavor, good rise, crust a little thick. I think I over-proofed it and the oven temp wasn’t correct. Will do over. Good recipe.

    2. That sounds wonderful, Chris. Yes, I thought about adding those, but I wanted a “pure” rye to start. I have plans for much more along these lines soon (including your suggestions!).

  8. My starter was 50/50, whole dark rye/bread flour and it behaved wonderfully in the levain. Overnight I got up early and saw at 7:30am that the levain had risen almost to the top of my 1.5qrt cambro and settled to a good inch over my starting point so I proceeded to the mix and 20 minute bulk fermentation which I had to extend by ten minutes. The shaping to final proof also needed an additional 30 minutes to get the last rise and cracking. It’s in the oven now.

      1. It turned out well and the flavor was outstanding. I did wait 24 hours before slicing and ended up quickly eating four slices because it was so delicious! One thin slice plain, another with some decent French butter, one slice toasted with harissa and Comté and a final toasted with habanero jelly and Comté. Ha, ha, the memory stuck. The crumb was good but I think it could have used a little more time on the final proof. I will be making this again.

  9. Hi Maurizio
    I’m going to give this a go tomorrow and add some cut malted rye grains and mixed seeds. Do you think I should increase the hydration a bit to accommodate the extra grains and seeds?

  10. I have just made this bread with emmer instead of wheat. As I supposed, the bread spread out and became a bit flat.
    I tastes wonderful. Absolutely a new favorite.

    Would it be a good idea to reduce the hydration a bit when using emmer?

    Thank you for this wonderful recipe.

  11. I have just made this bread with some modifications. Instead og wheat, i used emmer because it tastes so wonderful. Both emmer and rye I milled with my Mockmill. The bread spread out a bit, and became flatter than yours. I therefore reduced the time in the oven. After 40 minutes, it was at 98˚C.
    The bread tastes wonderful. And I am definitely going to make it many more times. Maybe twice the size?

    Would it be smart to reduce the hydration to 85% to make the bread less flat?

    Thank you for this rye recipe. I have missed a bread like this on your homepage.

    1. That’s amazing, love the combination of grain there. And freshly milled! You might want to consider reducing the final proof time by 15 minutes with those grains, especially if you’re using freshly milled emmer (which will be whole grain). But, I wouldn’t say you need to reduce the hydration, if anything, it might need to be increased! You hve to judge this by feel.

      So glad you like this one!

      1. Thank you for your answer. I will try that next time. We did not wsit to taste the bread. Half of it is eaten the same day it was baked. It smelled too good.

  12. I love that you posted a real rye bread recipe here and a free form loaf even! It’s so rarely found on English speaking blogs yet it’s such unique kind of bread with such a delicate kind of flavor. I love all kinds of bread but there’s a special place in my culinary heart reserved for rye bread. 🙂 Thanks for spreading the word, Maurizio!

    Greetings from rye bread land Germany

  13. Have you ever tried malted sourdough rye? Every spring I make my own rye malt using Central Milling rye which germinates incredibly well. I spent some time studying Russian in the former Soviet Union when I was in college many years ago and the malted rye brings back a lot of memories!

  14. I made this yesterday and it turned out well. I baked it in a cast iron pot but will probably leave the temperature at 450 next time I make it. I also needed more time all the way around as my kitchen is never that warm. The dough was easier to handle than I thought. Love having another rye option as I’ve been making Nordic seeded rye for the last year or so.

    1. Thanks for reporting back, Louisa! I think those modifications sound right on, especially when baking in a pot. And it’s been pretty cold here lately, too, the last time I made this I had to proof just a bit longer. Always an adjustment!

  15. I have an 100% rye starter that I have been feeding for a while but have not made breads with yet (in addition to my 100% white that I use regularly & a 100% desem starter) . Would it be preferable to use my 100% rye starter to build the levain since I have it available? Or do you recommend I feed my white starter with mixed flours as I see you do routinely? Thank you for your help:)

    1. You can do either. I used my white levain here, but a rye would be fantastic too. If I were to make this often, which I’m planning on doing, now, I’d probably use a rye starter.

    1. Hey Margie! Strange, the temp should be there, it happens at the end of the Proof step (450F). Will work as a pan loaf, no problem, you may need to bake longer since it’ll be in the pan, but I would guess not by much more.

      Let me know how you like this one; I love the simplicity and flavor!

      1. Don’t know where I printed from but my copy has bake as # 5, no proof. Could only happen to me 🙂 Pan baked up nice, will cut later today. Did take 2x proof time due to lower temps.

  16. Do you recommend baking this in a combo cooker or would it not be as good? Would I be keeping the lid on the entire time to achieve a similar result?

    1. Hey Su. I haven’t tried this, but it should work just fine. I’d take the lid off the combo after 20 minutes. You might also want to remove the loaf (carefully) for the last 15 minutes of the bake, just to be sure the bottom crust doesn’t get too dark. Let me know how it goes!

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