Super Soft Sourdough Hot Cross Buns

The moment the weather starts warming up and Easter is on the horizon (though, these are traditionally eaten on Good Friday), I start thinking about sourdough hot cross buns. The combination of warm spices, citrus zest/oil, and plump dried fruit (and candied peel!) folded into a soft, enriched dough that feels like the perfect bridge between winter baking and spring.

This recipe is adapted from my cookbook, The Perfect Loaf, but I’ve updated the formula here to include a tangzhong (a cooked flour paste) that makes these buns even softer and more tender. The tangzhong traps extra moisture in the dough, giving you that pillowy, pull-apart texture and keeping it softer longer than a traditional enriched bun.

These buns have milk, egg, butter, cinnamon, and sugar, which means the dough is a bit slower to ferment and takes a bit of patience. But the result is a deeply flavorful bun with a subtle sourdough tang that plays beautifully against the warm spices and sweet glaze.

What Makes These Hot Cross Buns Different

Most hot cross bun recipes rely on commercial yeast, which gets the job done fast but leaves flavor on the table. Using a sourdough gives these buns a more complex, rounded flavor with a very gentle acidity thanks to the sweet levain that balances the sweetness of the sugar, fruit, and glaze.

A few things that set my sourdough hot cross buns apart:

• Sweet levain: The levain for this recipe includes a small amount of sugar, which helps the wild yeast work more efficiently in such a rich dough.
• Tangzhong: By pre-cooking a small portion of the flour with milk, the result is a softer crumb that stays moist for days. I discuss this technique in detail in my guide to making tangzhong.
• Warm spices and citrus: Cinnamon, allspice, freshly ground nutmeg, and the zest of both a lemon and an orange. The combination is warm without being heavy.
• Two dried fruits: I use Thompson raisins (or candied orange peel) and currants (or regular raisins, or even chocolate chips, if you want to go that route). The optional soaker step plumps them so they don’t steal moisture from the dough during fermentation.

Baking Schedule

This is a same day, direct bake (except for the overnight levain). The levain and optional fruit soaker go overnight, and everything else happens the next day.

If you’re making these for Easter morning, prepare the levain Friday night, take the dough all the way until it’s halfway through proofing, then place it in the fridge overnight. Easter morning, take out to finish proofing for about an hour or two, and bake.

Baking Equipment

• Stand mixer or spiral mixer (highly recommended for this enriched dough)
• 9-inch square baking pan
• Medium saucepan (for tangzhong and glaze)
• Bench knife
• Bowl scraper
• Pastry bag, zip-top bag, or my favorite, disposable pastry bags (for piping the crosses)
• Digital scale
• Instant-read thermometer

Sourdough Hot Cross Buns Formula

For tips on how to calculate baker’s percentages or how to modify this formula, see my post on baker’s percentages (baker’s math).

Total formula

Desired dough temperature: 78°F (25°C). See my post on the importance of dough temperature for more information on dough temperatures.

Additional ingredients: 1 egg and 1 tablespoon milk for the egg wash.

Cross mixture

Simple syrup glaze

Sourdough Hot Cross Buns Method

1. Prepare the Sweet Levain and Fruit Soaker – 9:00 p.m.

Mix the levain: Warm or cool the water to about 78°F (25°C). In a large bowl, mix the levain ingredients until well incorporated. This is a sweet levain where the sugar helps yeast work more efficiently in such an enriched dough and it helps reduce the overall sourness in the final buns. Use a container that has plenty of room because it will rise considerably. Loosely cover and store in a warm place for 12 hours.

Prepare the optional fruit soaker: If your dried fruit and peel are very dry, soaking them can help soften them in the final buns. My fruit and peel are not dry, but rather, they’re incredibly moist. So I skipped this step.

Put the 74g raisins (or candied peel as you see in this post) and 49g dried currants (these are my favorite) in a medium bowl. Pour in enough water to just cover the dried fruit (the excess will be drained before the fruit is added to the dough). Cover the bowl and let soak until bulk fermentation.

2. Make the Tangzhong and Prepare Butter – 8:00 a.m. (next day)

Prepare the butter: Cut the butter into 1/2-inch-thick pats. Place in a bowl on the counter to warm to room temperature until mixing.

In a medium saucepan set over medium-low heat, add the 39g tangzhong flour and 178g tangzhong milk. Cook, whisking continuously, until the mixture thickens into a paste, 5 to 8 minutes. In the beginning, whisk vigorously to break up any flour clumps, and continue whisking to avoid burning. The mixture won’t seem to do anything for a while, but it will thicken.

Remove the pan from the heat and spread the tangzhong on a small plate to expedite cooling. Set aside.

3. Mix – 8:30 a.m.

Desired dough temperature (DDT): 78°F (25°C)

Check the levain: It should show signs of readiness: well aerated, risen very high, very bubbly, and frothy (see image below). If the levain is not showing these signs, let it ferment for 1 more hour and check again.

Mix the dough: With this enriched dough I highly recommend using a stand mixer (or a spiral mixer like the Halo Pro—see below). To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the flour, beaten egg, the sugar (it’s okay to add it all at once, whereas in the cookbook I do half at a time), spices and zest, water, salt, and ripe levain. Mix on low speed for 1 to 2 minutes until combined. Increase the speed to medium and mix for 5 minutes, until the dough begins to tighten, cling to the dough hook, and pull from the sides. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes in the bowl.

Continue mixing: Increase the speed to medium and mix for 3 to 6 minutes, until the dough is smooth and strong; it should cling to the dough hook but may not completely lift off the sides of the bowl. Use the windowpane test (stretch a small piece of the dough to see if it forms a translucent membrane) to check whether the dough is intensively developed. If the dough does not spread evenly or tear cleanly, mix on medium speed for 2 more minutes and test again.

Add the butter: With the mixer running on low speed, add the room temperature butter, one pat at a time. Wait until each pat is mostly absorbed before adding the next pat. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the dough hook as needed. Continue mixing on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes more until the dough smooths out and clings to the dough hook. The dough will be silky smooth, elastic, and shiny. Transfer to a container for bulk fermentation.

Add the inclusions: When using a mixer, I prefer to add the inclusions at the very end of mixing. Spread them over the dough in the mixing bowl and mix on the slowest speed until they’re evenly distributed throughout the dough.

Mixing hot cross buns with the Halo Pro spiral mixer: Since many of you might have this mixer, here’s how I mix this dough:

1. Add all the ingredients except the butter to the mixing bowl. Turn the mixer to 90 RPM and mix for 2 minutes.
2. Mix for 4 minutes at 120 RPM.
3. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.
4. Mix for 4 minutes at 120 RPM.
5. Once the dough is smooth and strong, turn the mixer down to 90 RPM and add the butter one pat at a time.
6. Turn the mixer to 70 RPM and add the fruit mixture a little at a time and mix until fully incorporated, 1-2 minutes.

Regardless of whether you’re mixing the dough with a stand mixer, spiral mixer, or by hand, it should look smooth and strong at the end of mixing, as seen below.

4. Bulk Fermentation – 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. (about 4 hours)

Duration: About 4 hours at warm room temperature, 74–76°F (23–24°C)

Folds: 2 sets of stretches and folds at 30-minute intervals

Set a timer and make a note: Write down the current time as the start of bulk fermentation, set a timer for 30 minutes, and let the dough rest in a warm place.

Stretch and fold: If you’re fully strengthening the dough during mixing with a mechanical mixer, one or more of these steps may not be necessary (see my guide to stretching and folding to learn how to determine this). When your timer goes off, drain the fruit soaker of any excess water. Spread about one-quarter of the soaker evenly over the dough. Using wet hands, pick up one side of the dough, stretch it up, and fold it over. Rotate the bowl 180 degrees and perform another stretch and fold. Rotate the bowl a quarter turn and perform another stretch and fold. Rotate the bowl 180 degrees and perform the last stretch and fold. The dough should be folded up neatly. Cover the bowl and repeat once more after 30 minutes.

Let the dough rest: After the last set, cover the bowl and let the dough rest for the remainder of bulk fermentation, about 3 hours.

5. Divide and Shape – 1:00 p.m.

Prepare the baking pan: Liberally butter a 9-inch square baking pan.

Check the dough: At the end of bulk fermentation, the dough will have risen and feel puffy when poked. If you wet a hand and gently tug on the surface of the dough, it will feel elastic and cohesive, resisting your pull. If you don’t see dough that’s airy, leave it for another 30 minutes in bulk fermentation and check again.

It’s important your dough rises and becomes puffed and soft at this point; don’t rush it.

Divide and shape the dough: Using a bowl scraper, gently scrape the dough onto a clean work surface, then use your bench knife to divide it into 9 pieces, each 115g. Using your bench knife in your dominant hand and with your other hand wet to reduce sticking, shape each piece of dough into a tight round (see above). Place the rounds in the prepared baking pan in 3 rows of 3. Place the pan inside a reusable plastic bag and seal.

Alternate pan option: I bake these in my 9-inch square nonstick baking pan for buns that are super soft, but you could also bake them on a 13 x 18-inch sheet pan with a little space in between if you want buns that have a well-colored and firmer crust all around.

Overnight option: At this point, the shaped buns can be covered and placed into the fridge overnight (or let proof for a few hours, then pop into the fridge to make the next day even shorter). Take out the next day and proceed with the remaining steps.

6. Proof – 1:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. (about 4 to 5 hours)

Duration: About 4 hours, or longer, if needed, at warm room temperature, 74–76°F (23–24°C)

Let the dough proof: Put the pan in a warm place to proof for about 4 hours. This is a slow-moving dough due to all the enrichments; it might take longer if your kitchen is cooler. The bun dough is ready when it is very soft to the touch with no dense spots and well risen. If using the 9-inch pan, the dough should have risen to just below the rim.

If the dough isn’t puffy and soft to the touch, proof 30 minutes more and check again—don’t rush the dough!

7. Prepare the Glaze, Cross Mixture, and Bake – 5:30 p.m.

Prepare the simple syrup glaze: Combine the 50g water and 50g sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Let it simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture turns clear, 2 to 4 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. The simple syrup can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator indefinitely.

Prepare the cross mixture: In a small bowl, combine the 50g white flour, 35g water, 15g orange juice(or more water), 15g oil, and a pinch of salt until a thick paste forms. It’s important that the paste not be too thick or too thin; it should just barely flow off the edge of a spoon (similar to a thick cream). If the mixture is too dry or thick, add a small splash of water as needed to loosen. Transfer to a pastry bag or a plastic bag with a small cut made at the corner to pipe out the mixture. Set aside.

Before baking, apply the egg wash and pipe the crosses: Make the egg wash by whisking together the egg and 1 tablespoon milk. Uncover the pan and brush a light layer of the egg wash on the buns. Pipe a thin, vertical line of the cross mixture down the center of each column of buns. Rotate the pan a quarter turn and pipe another line down the center of each column, forming a cross on each bun.

Bake: Bake for 15 minutes. Rotate the pan back to front, reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C), and bake for 10 to 15 minutes more, or until the internal temperature reaches 195°F (90°C) and the buns are golden brown on top.

Finish and cool: Remove the pan from the oven, then brush a layer of the simple syrup onto the buns. Let cool for 5 minutes. Either serve warm straight from the pan or let them cool on a wire rack.

These are fantastic served with a high-quality salted butter (I like to slice them in half and spread them in the middle). They’re best the day they are baked, but can be stored in an airtight container for 1 day (reheat in a low oven).

Sourdough Hot Cross Buns

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• Author: Maurizio Leo
• Prep Time: 12 hours
• Cook Time: 30 minutes
• Total Time: 12 hours 30 minutes
• Yield: 9 buns
• Category: Buns, Sweets
• Cuisine: British

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Description

Soft, spiced sourdough hot cross buns with warm cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, citrus zest, and plump dried fruit. A sweet levain and tangzhong make these buns exceptionally tender and flavorful.

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Ingredients

Levain

• 77g high-protein white flour (~12–14% protein)
• 19g superfine sugar
• 77g water
• 31g ripe sourdough starter, 100% hydration

Tangzhong

• 39g high-protein white flour
• 178g whole milk

Main Dough

• All the tangzhong
• All the levain
• 378g high-protein white flour (~12–14% protein)
• 49g egg, beaten (about 1 medium)
• 77g water
• 20g superfine sugar
• 9g fine sea salt
• 74g Thompson raisins or candied orange peel
• 49g dried currants or chocolate chips
• 3g ground cinnamon (about 1 teaspoon)
• 1g ground allspice (about ½ teaspoon)
• 1g freshly ground nutmeg (about ½ teaspoon)
• Zest of 1 lemon
• Zest of 1 orange
• 69g unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into ½-inch pats

Cross Mixture

• 50g white flour
• 35g water
• 15g orange juice (or more water)
• 15g vegetable oil
• Pinch of salt

Simple Syrup Glaze

• 50 water
• 50g sugar

Egg Wash

• 1 egg
• 1 tablespoon milk

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Instructions

1. Prepare the levain and fruit soaker (Day One, 9:00 p.m.)
   Mix the levain ingredients in a container and leave covered to ripen at about 78°F (25°C) for 12 hours overnight. In a separate bowl, cover the raisins and currants with water and let soak overnight.
2. Make the tangzhong (Day Two, 8:00 a.m.)
   Cook flour and milk portion in a saucepan over medium heat, whisking continuously, until the mixture thickens into a paste, about 5–8 minutes. Set aside to cool.
3. Mix (8:30 a.m.)
   Cut the butter into ½-inch pats and set on a plate to come to room temperature. To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the flour, beaten egg, sugar, spices and zests, water, salt, tangzhong, and ripe levain. Mix on low speed for 1 to 2 minutes until combined. Increase to medium and mix for 5 minutes until the dough tightens and clings to the hook. Rest 10 minutes. Then mix on medium for 3 to 6 minutes, until smooth and strong. Add the butter one pat at a time on low speed, waiting for each to absorb. Add the inclusions (raisins and peel) and mix on low speed for 1 to 2 more minutes until silky and elastic. Transfer to a bulk fermentation container.
4. Bulk fermentation (9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.)
   Give the dough 2 sets of stretch and folds at 30-minute intervals. After the last fold, let the dough rest undisturbed for the remainder of bulk fermentation, about 3 hours.
5. Divide and shape (1:00 p.m.)
   Liberally butter a 9-inch square baking pan. Divide the dough into 9 pieces of 115g each and shape each into a tight round. Place in the pan in 3 rows of 3. Cover with a reusable plastic bag.
6. Proof (1:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m.)
   Let the buns proof in a warm place for about 3 hours, or until very soft to the touch, well risen, and the dough has risen to the rim of the pan. Don’t rush the dough, keep it warm and proof until the dough is very soft.
7. Prepare the glaze, crosses, and bake (5:30 p.m.)
   Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Make the simple syrup by simmering 50g water and 50g sugar until clear, 2 to 4 minutes; set aside. Mix the cross ingredients into a thick paste and transfer to a piping bag. Whisk the egg wash and brush lightly on the buns. Pipe crosses on each bun. Bake for 15 minutes, rotate the pan, reduce the oven to 350°F (175°C), and bake for 10 to 15 minutes more until the internal temperature reaches 195°F (90°C). Brush with simple syrup and let cool for 5 minutes before serving with salted butter.

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Notes

Scheduling: If you’re making these for Easter morning, prepare the levain Friday night, take the dough all the way until it’s halfway through proofing, then place it in the fridge overnight. Easter morning, take out to finish proofing for about an hour or two, and bake.

Do ahead (tangzhong): You can prepare the tangzhong the night before. Cook the flour and milk as instructed, let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate overnight. The next morning, take it out to let it warm some (to room temperature would be ideal) and proceed to add it during the mix as instructed.

Do ahead (overnight proof): You can prepare the dough and proof the buns overnight to bake the next day at any time. After shaping, cover the pan and place it in the fridge overnight. The next day, take the buns out and let them warm for 30 minutes, then continue with the Proof and Bake steps.

Fruit options: Thompson raisins are traditional, but dried orange peel works beautifully. For the currants, chocolate chips make a great nontraditional swap.

Pan options: A 9-inch square pan gives you super-soft, pull-apart buns. A sheet pan with spacing gives buns with a firmer, more well-colored crust all around.

What’s Next?

Since I wrote my cookbook over four years ago and developed the bones of this recipe, these sourdough hot cross buns have become a spring tradition in my kitchen. This new version of the recipe yields an even softer bread, and the combination of warm spices, citrus, and plump fruit in a soft, naturally leavened dough makes this transitional time even better.

If you’d like to explore similar enriched dough recipes, check out my super soft sourdough rolls (which also uses tangzhong) or my sourdough pumpkin dinner rolls for a different take on pull-apart rolls.

Happy baking!