This entry is a short interlude that doesn’t contain a bread formula, but rather, an accompaniment to just about any of the loaves baked here. I ate this with a recently baked whole wheat loaf made with fresh milled flour, my sourdough waffles and also my go-to white sourdough formula but I’m also eager to try it out on my walnut levain. Ricotta is incredibly versatile and you can find recipes abound, but as I’ve recently discovered it tastes far superior to store bought options when freshly made at home with good quality milk.
It was the Balloon Fiesta here a couple weeks ago and it was the perfect weekend for me to make this recipe. I used to attend the fiesta each year but as it is when you grow up somewhere you rarely visit the sights around you opting for places far and wide, anywhere but home. The fiesta is a pretty big deal here in Albuquerque, the unique terrain of the city makes for the perfect conditions to launch and fly balloons. The large Sandia Mountains and low valley create a sort of “box” that keeps balloons in the area for longer, before finally drifting away. Couple that with cool, crisp morning around this time of the year and you have ideal flying conditions. The shot below was taken from my backyard one chilly morning as the balloons ascended and drifted away.
I really have no excuse for why I haven’t made this cheese at home until now, and it just might become a weekend ritual. The recipe is so easy, and it requires only a few things in your pantry, it makes me wonder why you’d ever have to buy this again at the market. If you decide to make pancakes or waffles one morning out of the blue, it only takes about 15-20 minutes to whip up a batch of ricotta and be ready to serve it warm.
The following recipe is based on Alice Waters’ Ricotta recipe found in her excellent book, My Pantry. I reduced the amount of salt by about 1/4 TSP (originally 3/4 TSP) as it was a bit on the salty side for my taste. Her recipe takes up only three quarters of a page in her book– that’s how easy this is. I think the key to making good ricotta is, naturally, using good quality milk (if you have access, fresh local milk is definitely best).
Alice Waters recommends using milk that is not ultra pasteurized (UHT) as the result just won’t come out properly. It should be easy to find whole milk (even organic) at your local market that is not UHT, and I’ve tried this recipe now with a few different types. The latest attempt was using Kalona organic “batch pasteurized” whole milk, and the result was the best so far. Next to finding locally produced milk I’ve enjoyed this brand the most out of the options at my market (you can find this milk at Whole Foods). This milk is not only batch pasteurized but it’s also non-homogenized, meaning it will have the label “cream on top”. Essentially this means the fat in the milk is not distributed evenly throughout the liquid.
So what’s the difference between UHT and batch pasteurized? UHT milk is heated to a really high temperature, about 280ºF, and then rapidly cooled. Through this process enzymes, vitamins and some proteins are destroyed, rendering it unusable for making cheese. Batch pasteurized, also called vat pasteurized, is heated to a lower temperature, but heated for longer, preserving more enzymes, vitamins and proteins and thereby making it more suitable for making ricotta. Chances are if you are buying batch pasteurized milk it will be fresh and organic, which is great.
Low temperature pasteurization, also called vat or batch pasteurization, is one of several acceptable ways to pasteurize milk, a process used to kill harmful pathogens.Berkeley Welness
I haven’t tried making ricotta with UHT milk just yet, but I’d be interested to see if it works. Has anyone tried this? If you’ve attempted this I’d love to hear about it below in the comments section!
A one-quart bottle of milk will make approximately 1.5 cups of ricotta. The liquid that’s leftover from this, whey, can be used in many other ways including baking sourdough. I’ll be experimenting with a whey sourdough loaf in the future — no sense in letting this go to waste! If you’re making this for a large group of people go with 2 quarts of milk and use a larger saucepan, doubling the other ingredients. One and a half cups of ricotta will disappear faster than you think.
Recipe Yield: approximately 1.5 cups
|4 cups||Whole milk, batch pasteurized, cream on top (avoid ultra pasturized)|
|1.5 TBSP||Distilled white vinegar|
|0.5 TSP||Sea salt|
- Heat the milk in a saucepan until it reaches 190ºF (stir occasionally to prevent scorching)
- Pour in vinegar and lightly stir, until the temperature raises back up to 190ºF. If you do not see any white curd chunks forming add in more vinegar, 1/2 TSP at a time until you do1
- Turn off heat & leave for 10 minutes untouched
- Place some cheesecloth over a bowl and gently ladle in the chunky curds from saucepan
- Slowly stir salt into chunks resting on cheesecloth
If you want your ricotta more firm, leave it to drain thoroughly in the cheesecloth, and further, you can use a cheese mold or as I’ve done here, a tofu press with a weight on top. Place the mold on a dish and let sit in the fridge for a day or so. My iconic fish, an incredibly heavy cast iron bottle opener I’ve had for just about ever, stepped in to help gravity do its job.
The tofu press I have is a nice one, made completely from wood and if you ever find yourself making actual tofu this is the one to get. I think at this point I’ve probably used it to make ricotta more often than tofu, but hey, I am Italian after all.
This ricotta will last about 4 days in the fridge. We ate the entire batch warm, right from the stove, on top of my freshly made sourdough waffles. We placed a dollop or two of the ricotta on top of the waffles after a good slathering of butter, and then topped it all off with some light maple syrup. The warm cheese went extremely well with the slightly-sour crisp waffles and I would say perhaps a few blueberries would have taken it even further.
But this cheese doesn’t just stop at waffles…
Homemade Ricotta with Whole Wheat Sourdough
Later in the day I chose to spread the ricotta on recently baked whole wheat sourdough made with fresh milled flour and the flavors worked so well together — it was delicious. The tender crumb and hearty flavor of the whole wheat was the perfect vehicle for cheese and honey. In addition to honey I’d also consider using pure maple syrup, a good Italian olive oil, or just spread plain.
You can see above that this batch of ricotta was more on the firm side. I tried both more firm and more liquid methods and I prefer the more creamy and spreadable version. If you feel the same way, don’t let the cheese sit for too long in the cheesecloth and don’t let it dry out in a mold in the fridge overnight. It’s really wonderful when it’s soft and spreadable.
I’ve eaten ricotta my entire life, and some of the best while traveling out in Italy, but making your own is remarkably easy and tastes so staggeringly good it’s a mystery to me I’ve not tried making this before. This cheese goes well with almost every bread recipe found here, especially with hearty whole wheat loaves and those with walnuts or other seeds added.
At this point I’ve been inspired by so many of Alice Waters’ recipes and writings I really need to buy her a spritz and have a nice long chat over some fresh cheese and sourdough. Until that date I’ll have to settle with reading her excellent books on cooking and her methodologies for applying seasonal and fresh food to our cooking lineup — perhaps more importantly, though, is my attempt to use as many of her recipes on or with fresh sourdough bread as possible.
When using this batch pasteurized milk I did not immediately see this happen and had to add an additional 1 TSP vinegar. Keep in mind some of the chunks may be below the surface↩