Golden Raisin and Fennel Seed Sourdough

I recently had a chance to head out to San Francisco, CA for a quick vacation and now that I’m back I find myself still thinking of the ocean, Tartine bread, Napa wine, and Lagunitas brew… My brother and I met up there to spend some time with a good friend of ours and we did it right: Tartine bakery for oat porridge bread and croissants, Bar Tartine for dinner, Napa for wine, and a quick 2 day excursion to Healdsburg to explore the area on Segways while sipping wine and trying not to get run over.

We planned ahead before leaving to Napa and had a loaf of Tartine oat porridge on pre-order, picked up the night before it was in our packed bag with a charcuterie spread ready for the day. I would be lying if I don’t admit to being just as excited about cutting into that bread as I was about drinking wine and seeing the sights the next day.

Tartine's Oat Porridge Sourdough

The bread was superb, but you probably already knew I was going to say that. The loaf was actually a bit challenging to cut as the crust and crumb were so moist and tender I would almost crush it while slicing. About midway through our little lunch we just gave up on the knife altogether and started ripping pieces off with our bare hands. Between the three of us we almost finished off the entire loaf in that one sitting. Actually, wait, we did finish off the whole loaf in that one sitting.

Tartine's Oat Porridge Sourdough

After a few visits to other wineries, which were all incredible, we stumbled on St. Supéry with its empty (!?) pétanque courts bathed in shade by large oak trees overhead, cooled by a huge green ivy wall behind, and supplied with wine from inside. We just had to play a few competative rounds where the 2 losers had to fit the tasting bill. Wine, excellent company pétanque courts, trees and green ivy all over — that’s a nice scene for the afternoon.

St. Supery winery and petanque

In Healdsburg we signed up for a tour through several wineries on Segways. Sure, you might be thinking: “hey isn’t that kind of like drinking and driving?” Yes, it is in a way, but I tell you Segways are so intuitive it’d be hard to crash one, even after 3 or 4 drinks (although there was that one hill where my brother almost ate it going up, to the laughs of the rest of the group). The Segway tour was a huge hit with us, we had a blast rocking back and forth trying to accelerate and stop on a dime, plus we got a chance to explore some of the smaller, off-the-beaten-path, wineries we would have never found on our own. The countryside reminds me of a scene straight out of Tuscany, I could live there and pick grapes for the rest of my days without a peep.

Segway tour of wineries in Healdsburg

On the drive back to San Francisco we decided to stop in at the Lagunitas brewery and take their laid-back, yet educational, tour. I’ve been on several brewery tours around the US (Odell in Ft. Collins included) and Lagunitas might have just taken the top spot. The tour guide had a wonderful joyous attitude throughout the entire thing and not only did we get to try ample samples of their beer, we got to hang out with this guy the whole time:

Lagunitas "guard" dog

San Francisco was a blast, as it always is, but now let’s get on to some homemade bread…

So I’ve been tinkering with this golden raisin and fennel seed sourdough loaf for a little while, tweaking the amount of each ingredient until I got the right pinch of fennel seeds, and the right scoop of raisins, to pair with my standard sourdough recipe. It’s a rather straightforward entry this time, but sometimes it’s comforting making simple bread with a few ingredients to keep things interesting.

Fennel goes so well with sourdough, it has a delicate flavor that whisks me back to our trips to Italy where we would eat raw fennel with a smidgen of olive oil, salt & pepper. It’s typically served as an antipasto of sorts, right before that large summer family lunch or dinner. Just perfect, and refreshing. For this bread I used fennel seeds and pulverized them with a mortar & pestle until I had nothing but small pieces remaining.

Golden sultana raisins add a touch of sweetness at every other bite, just enough but not so much as to overpower the rest of the flavors in the bread. Some raisin bread recipes call for quite a bit of the small, sugary ingredient, but I prefer to be light handed with them. After all, we’re not really making dessert bread here, we just want a dash of sweetness to peek through occasionally. During bulk fermentation I poured boiling water over the sultana raisins and let them sit for about 30 minutes, then I drained the excess water.

Fennel seed & salt

One thing to note with this recipe, as with any where you are adding hydrated ingredients (my oat porridge bakes are a good reminder), the raisins do hold on to a little bit of water and will later release this into your dough. You should be easy with adding water during mixing and only add just enough.

Prepare the young levain – 6:30am

Prepare the following just after you get up in the morning:

Weight Ingredient
25g Mature starter
50g Giusto’s whole wheat flour
50g Central Milling Organic Arstisan Bakers Craft (malted)
90g H2O @ 85ºF

Keep it in a warm area in your kitchen for 6 hours or until it smells and looks ready to you. You should see small bubbles on top, and if you used a glass container, bubbles throughout.

Levain ready to go

Autolyse & Mix – 9:30am

I decided to perform my typical 3 hour autolyse for this bread, but feel free to change this to suit your schedule. I do not usually go lower than 40 minutes, but any amount of time you can provide at this stage is beneficial.

Ingredients:

Gather the following:

Weight Ingredient Baker’s Percentage
200g Giusto’s whole wheat flour 20%
800g Central Milling Organic Arstisan Bakers Craft (malted) 80%
800g H2O @ 86ºF 80%
20g Fine sea salt 2%
150g Ripe levain 15%
150g Golden Sultana Raisins 15%
7g (1 TBSP) Fennel seeds, crushed with a mortar & pestle 0.7%

 

foodtravelthought_raisin_san_francisco-10

Perform the following for your autolyse:

  1. In a thick bowl add your 800g white flour and 200g whole wheat flour
  2. Add 700g of your 86ºF water (the rest, 100g, is reserved until later when we add in the levain & salt after the autolyse)
  3. Mix these ingredients by hand until incorporated. Remember at this stage we are not looking for any gluten development, just make sure all the dry bits of flour are gone
  4. Cover with wrap and keep near your levain for 3 hours or so

Flour & water for the autolyse

I love the raw smell of flour just as the water hits it, you can almost taste the sweetness in the air. The Central Milling flour I used for this bake (I’ll have more thoughts on this flour later after I get a chance to run it through a few more bakes) turned out to be very, very “thirsty” and could have used more water. I could tell it could take more water just by the feel of it, usually the dough is very slack at this point and almost falling apart. Next bake I’ll have a little heavier had when adding water but it’s best to start out with lower hydration and gradually work your way up as your mix (and sometimes even bulk) progresses. You can always add more water but removing it, well, that’s not possible.

Mix after your 3 hour autolyse – 12:30pm

For this bread I decided not to mix with my previously learned slap & fold technique, however, I did build some strength upfront by mixing with a heavier hand and for a few minutes longer than I typically would.

Hand mixing

Follow the process below:

Add your 150g levain and 20g salt to the top of your dough and cut it in with your hand. It will kind of break apart but then come back together again after cutting for a while. Use a little of your 100g water reserve to get things going. If it feels like your dough is super sloppy and breaking apart don’t add the entire 100g reserve. After “cutting” for a while to get the salt & levain incorporated fold the dough over itself in the bowl, similar to what you would do during bulk fermentation folding. Essentially I would reach my fingers under the dough, pull a side up and over to the other side, rotate the bowl a bit and repeat. I did this mixing for about 2 minutes, until the dough started to get really sticky. You will notice a change.

Final dough temperature: 77ºF
Ambient temperature: 74ºF

It’s starting to really get chilly in my kitchen. Where it would normally be around 77ºF out here it’s now dipped down to 72-74ºF. You’ll have to keep an eye on your dough and adjust your timetable to suit. Things may seem to take a little longer than usual. Also, you really want to try to hit a desired dough temperature of 78ºF. If it’s cold in your kitchen you should raise your mixing water temperature to compensate.

Bulk Fermentation – 12:35pm

Transfer your dough to a clear container to be used during bulk fermentation and let rest for the first 30 minutes. After the first 30 minutes has passed, do your second set of stretch and folds put your golden raisins in a bowl and cover with just-boiled water. You will let these raisins soak for 30 minutes, just until after your second set of stretch and folds.

Crushing fennel seed with mortar & pestle

After the second set of stretch and folds add your crushed fennel seed, drained golden raisins (I drained them in the sifter I use for making high extraction whole wheat) and a little splash of water. Mix a bit with your hand to get these ingredients dispersed through your dough.

  1. 1:05pm – Turn Set 1 (at this point cover your raisins in a separate bowl with boiled water and let sit)
  2. 1:35pm – Turn Set 2 (after this set add crushed fennel seeds and drained golden raisins)
  3. 2:05pm – Turn Set 3

At this point the dough started to really hold its shape in my container and the fennel and raisins were well incorporated. Judge for yourself at this point: does the dough look like it’s holding its shape? Or is it still spreading out like a bowl of wet dough? If it’s not holding it’s shape do one or two more sets of stretch and folds after 30 minutes each. I let mine rest for the remainder of bulk fermentation, which took a little longer than usual due to the colder temps in my kitchen.

Pre-shape – 5:45pm

Take the dough out of the container onto your work surface. Divide into two halves and lightly spin the dough in little circles across your work surface with your bench knife in one hand and your other empty hand—kind of like turning a car’s steering wheel. No need to overwork the dough here! You just want to gently form them into two boules, just enough to hold their shape for a 20 minute rest.

Lightly dust your proofing bannetons with white rice flour in preparation for the next step. If you don’t have bannetons you can simply use any small bowl around your kitchen.

Central Milling Flour and my bench knife from Japan

Shape + Proof – 6:05pm

Shape each resting dough into a batard (or boule if you’d like to keep it round today) and place them into their flour-dusted bannetons. Now place these into plastic bags and let rest on the counter for 2 hours at room temperature, which as I mentioned earlier, is a bit cool here around 72-74ºF. After this two hour rest on the counter you should have noticed your dough rise just a bit, place your bannetons with wrap into the fridge to proof overnight, we will bake these in the morning.

I’ve been emailed a few times with questions about my refridgerator and what temperature it is during my overnight proof. I’ve kept a thermometer in there for a while now and it consistently reads 37ºF (which is recommended by my manufacturer, apparently). I’d like this to be closer to 40ºF for optimal proofing, but it is what it is.

Score + Bake – around 9:30am

In the morning, place your baking stone and Dutch oven in your oven and turn it to 500ºF for a 1 hour pre-heat. After one hour, take one of your bannetons out of the fridge and cut a piece of parchment paper to place on top. Take your peel and then put it on top of those two and quickly invert it so the dough is now resting on the parchment paper which is resting on the peel.

Score the top of the dough with your desired pattern. If you’re following my lead with the typical “crescent” slash, make sure it’s very horizontal to the dough, move quickly, and score rather deeply.

Take out the shallow side of your Dutch oven and drag in your dough. Quickly place the pan back in the oven, cover with the deep side, and bake for 20 minutes at 490ºF. After 20 minutes, turn down the oven to 440ºF and cook covered for an additional 10 minutes. Once this 10 minute period is over, open the oven and take off the deep lid of the Dutch oven (set it next to the other half inside the oven), then cook for an additional 30 minutes or so, until the bread is to your desired doneness.

Lovely color to the crust

Keep an eye on this loaf in that last 15 minutes of baking! It will turn from almost done to burned in a matter of minutes. I reduced the temperature for my second loaf as the first cooked rather quickly. I definitely didn’t burn it but it was a close call. Another thing, some people don’t like the charred raisins on top, you know, those that were sticking out when you first placed the dough in the oven. Before baking you can either try to gently poke them back into the dough, pluck them off, or do what I do: pick them out after your baked bread has cooled.

Conclusion

I love the flavor combination of this bread; the delicate fennel taste and slightly sweet golden raisins pair well with the subtle sour flavor found in my sourdough. It’s easy to toss in toasted hazelnuts, walnuts, pecans, etc. and have good bread, but this is a great change from the norm and I have to keep myself in check when deciding what to bake next, it seems to keep creeping to the top of my mind — I can’t make the same thing every single week for a month. If my next entry here has golden raisins and fennel I might just have a problem…

Golden raisin and fennel seed sourdough crumb

Crust

I baked these loaves dark, maybe a bit past what I’d normally do, but the taste of the crust was very good. It’s kind of funny when people see my bread, they always exclaim: “did you burn this!?” But, as it always happens, they taste it and it tastes perfect. I think most people are used to that light, pale brown crust that is so common in the grocery stores. To me I see that and think: “wow that’s so undercooked and probably has no flavor”. However, like I mentioned earlier, it’s easy to burn these so keep an eye on them.

Golden raisin and fennel seed sourdough crust

Crumb

I had some serious fermentation going on in these loaves, and you can see it in the pictures. They had a nice and light feel to them despite the added raisins, and you know that’s a good sign. When I cut into them I was expecting some larger more irregular holes, but I’m very happy with the result.

Taste

This golden sultana raisin and fennel seed sourdough is one of my top recipes. I just love the taste of this bread. I paired it with roasted chicken, avocado, roasted tomato, aged gouda and lettuce for incredible sandwiches throughout the week. Also, try it toasted with a little apple butter spread on top… Yes!

Golden raisin and fennel seed sourdough

Buon appetito!

Recipe and method submitted to YeastSpotting.
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  • Liz Tree

    You have got to be kidding me.. I am making the oat porridge bread right now! I got the book out of the library. It is bulk fermenting and I will be baking it in the am! Also what is that flour you are using. I use Central Milling too.. the Beehive, which is malted all purpose

    • Great! That oat porridge is one of my favs. The flour I used for this golden raisin entry was Central Milling’s Artisan Bakers Craft (malted). I’ll be using it more in the coming weeks!

  • anthill

    cheers! i have found all of your sourdough posts exceptionally helpful – thank you for all the details of your experiments and successes. wondering after reading this post: are you finding worthwhile advantages to the “slap and fold” method versus folding alone?

    • You’re welcome, thanks for stopping by! I’m still undecided on the slap & fold method as of yet. I think the real thing to learn here is that I should be building more strength at the mix stage of baking than I was previously. I’m going to continue to experiment with the slap & fold here soon and will have a writeup on how it goes…

  • anthill

    thanks will be curious to hear your future thoughts on slap & fold; for fun, i tried it yesterday/bake this morning. 81% hydration, s&p quickly did give strength and i ended up doing 4 stretch & folds (as opposed to my normal 6-7). i really liked the way it handled after a final 3 hour bulk/bench rest. after refrig proof, though, i couldn’t tell much difference when it came out of the banneton and for me, at least, no major bake differences. if anything, smaller holes in the crumb but then again this was my first time trying this method so i’m sure my skills were lacking. also for fun, i decided to score one and not the other and also baked the second about 5-7 minutes less – wow, what a difference a small gesture and a few minutes make! visually as if baked by 2 different people in 2 different kitchens with different doughs…. a few lingering questions and some quite general but hope you/other readers might have some thoughts:

    1) do you (and/or others) bake batards in round combo cooker? i find they do fit (barely) but almost go round (boule-ish) anyway after bake. and for some reason, they tend to stick for me in the batard baskets (same material and as ‘seasoned’ as my boule baskets).
    2) after overnight refrig fermentation, do doughs seem deflated in their ‘skin’? very different from the feel when first putting them into bannetons. i don’t think they are over-proofed as they bake with spring and good crumb – they just kind of quickly spread out once released from banneton.
    3) and most general, but even after much googling not clear on this aspect. my starter does pretty well, but i’m not sure of its percentage. i’ve been assuming 100% but this is what confuses me: early on i would maintenance feed 1:1:1, (20g starter / 20g water / 20g flour) after some reading i began to feed 1:2:2 (20g starter / 40g water / 40g flour)- are they both 100%? what about a 1:3:3 or 1:4:4?

    pardon the long comment. any thoughts much appreciated !

    • That’s both the rewarding and frustrating thing about baking: one small change can have drastic changes in outcome!

      1) Yes, I always bake in a combo cooker, even my batards (almost all the pics I post here). They do barely fit, I mean barely, but I somehow always make it. I would prefer to bake directly on my baking stone, and I might attempt this here soon, but I’m sticking to the combo cooker for now due to the nice steam effect inside. If you have dough that is very high hydration like we’re doing, even if floured your dough may stick to your bannetons. I use tea towels inside my baskets lightly dusted with flour and have no issues.

      2) That quick spread may be due to lack of strength in your dough at that point, or simply because they are high hydration. It is normal when you get 80%+ for them to spread out a bit, especially after scoring. Gotta unload, score, and quickly get those suckers in the oven!

      3) It depends on what you are referring to when you say “100%”, but almost always this refers to the hydration of your starter or your dough. So when people say “I have a 100% hydration starter” they are simply saying they are using 100% water-to-flour ratio (you don’t count your starter). So the example you posted, 20 starter : 40 water : 40 flour is 100% (40g water / 40g flour == 100%).

      Good luck on the next attempt, let me know how it works out and feel free to post or email me any q’s you have.

  • anthill

    thank you much for the informative reply; i guess that is what has confused me — not including the starter in determining starter hydration (as most do when figuring dough hydration).

  • anthill

    or more technically, i suppose, including the levain (not really the starter) in dough hydration…maybe that is the difference?

    • I usually don’t include the levain in my dough hydration calculations, that’s correct. I probably should start doing that…

  • Beautiful. Sounds like a wonderful trip. Regarding the fridge, I hear getting a wind fridge and using it for fermenting dough works, because they can be set at higher temps.

  • Sarah Wentz

    Baked this up last night – really fantastic. The fennel adds a nice earthly tone to the bread. It’s so great just for toast, but I also think it will be great with cheese on it! The raisins made me a little nostalgic for more of a cinnamon bread taste or a rugelach flavor, but that’s probably just nostalgia kicking in.

    I’ve thoroughly been enjoying trying many of the recipes on your site. All are substantially better than many other recipes that I’ve attempted. I was making my way through Classic Sourdoughs previously, but the resulting breads were all quite dense and not appealing to me. (The one benefit was that the book prompted me to build a proofing box which I find invaluable.) I love the high hydration formulas you are working with! I’m contemplating getting a book – possibly one of the Tartine, possibly Hamelman’s Bread. Since you’re my spirit guide in the bread world, I wondered what your recommendations are, or where else you might direct some one for additional inspiration.

    • Thanks, Sarah! Really glad to hear this recipe turned out so well. I make it frequently, I love the flavor profile.

      It’s great to hear my recipes are working so well for you! I love making bread with high hydration, I find the crumb and crust really turn out fantastic. I’ve recently started using a proof box as well and wonder how I got on without it! Before using it I would turn my oven into a makeshift proof box which did work reasonably well.

      Tartine is probably my favorite baking book, but more for the story and inspiration. Don’t get my wrong, it has great recipes and methods, but I find more value in the story of Chad Robertson and his pursuit of bread — it’s what got me started baking so many years ago! BREAD is a fantastic book and I think every baker should own it. There are so many recipes, insights, scientific facts, and just overall a very information-dense book.

      I would say that you should own both! Pickup BREAD first if you are looking for hard facts, recipes and methods, and then pickup Tartine when you want more of a story, incredible pictures and overall inspiration.

      I hope that helps, happy baking and thanks so much for the comments!

      • Sarah Wentz

        Fantastic. Thanks for your thoughts! I am going to see if I can coerce my other half to let me pick up both this weekend. 🙂

  • ReneeR

    Just made this…delicious! Thank you!

    • Super glad to hear that — thanks so much for the update! This is definitely one tasty bread 🙂