Sour Cherry, Toasted Pecan and Buckwheat Levain

My childhood home had a craggy, sprawling cherry tree in our backyard where my brother and I would climb day after day. The heightened frequency of our climbing adventures and the arrival of cherry season was not entirely unrelated. Each trip up, swinging and snaking through the litany of maroon branches, was punctuated with a delectable snack somewhere near the end. Of course the acquisition of said snack didn’t come without its battle with a brash bird or two1 and even the occasional angry ant, but this was the price the tree demanded. Serendipitously stumbling upon that bunch of ripe cherries was reward enough for the surprising sting or feather in the face.

It’s during cherry season that I remember my childhood backyard the most. Probably because of the endless cherries we snacked on but also because the tree seemed to be an integral part of our yard, a friend almost, even if it was just one amongst many other fruit trees. During the hot summer days off school we walked barefoot under its branches only to have the soles of our feet stained red from the fallen fruit discarded by the birds or scattered about by the rough winds.

While it’s not cherry season right now, I just couldn’t quite shake a recent happy accident which was the impetus for this entire recipe: a friend’s cherry preserves spread on my toasted sprouted buckwheat sourdough. The flavors instantly transported me back to childhood and my favorite tree. I knew I wanted to work with cherries right then and a flavor profile for this formula began to take shape in my head: cherries, buckwheat, and roasted pecans for a slight buttery, rich note.

sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loaf

The next trip to the market resulted in my purchase of several packages of dried sour cherries (you can buy these cherries online at a much better price) and some whole pecans. In addition to these two complementary flavors I knew cherries and buckwheat would also work well together — the earthy buckwheat grounds the sweet and sour cherries, it mellows their strong flavor and provides balance.

Flour Selection

My (not so) secret love affair with buckwheat flour continues in this bread. I like to use buckwheat where I need a grounding flavor, something to balance out sweetness or add depth and complexity. I’ve found including more than 3-5% results in a tighter crumb as the percentage increases, but more than that, 3% seems to be the perfect percentage for me in terms of providing enough flavor without too many side effects. You can certainly work this percentage up if you want even more intense flavor from the buckwheat.sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loafsour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loafAside from the buckwheat, the rest of the formula utilizes mostly medium-protein white flour and some strong white flour to help support the added pecans and cherries. Some straight 100% whole wheat would be a nice addition to this formula in place of some of the white flour if you prefer a heartier, more flavor-forward bread.

As always, if you don’t stock “Type 85” flour you can substitute the quantity called for with 50% whole wheat and 50% white flour. This is not an exact substitution but it’s close enough (flavor and performance wise).

Sour Cherry, Toasted Pecan and Buckwheat Levain

Vitals

Note that if you plan to bake this bread in a Dutch oven, you might want to reduce the total dough weight here to 1800g or so to ensure they’ll fit comfortably. Lately I’ve been making slightly larger, and longer, batards at 1kg each.

Total Dough Weight 2000 grams
Pre-fermented Flour 5.30%
Hydration 83%
Yield 2 x 1000 gram loaves

sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loaf
Levain Build

Weight Ingredient Baker’s Percentage
47g Mature liquid starter (100% hydration) 100%
47g Malted Type 85 Flour (Central Milling T-85 Malted) 100%
47g H2O @ room temperature 100%

Dough Formula

Target final dough temperature (FDT) is 77ºF.

Note that the baker’s percentages listed below are with respect to the final dough ingredients and do not take into account the levain.

Weight Ingredient Baker’s Percentage
537g Malted Bread Flour (Central Milling Artisan Baker’s Craft) 63.36%
176g Malted Type 85 Flour(Central Milling Type 85 Malted) 20.86%
134g High Gluten Bread Flour, ~13.5% Protein (Central Milling High Mountain) 15.84%
27g Whole Grain Buckwheat Flour (Bob’s Red Mill Buckwheat) 3.17%
696g H2O @ 90ºF 82.05%
18g Salt 2.11%
142g Mature, 100% hydration liquid levain 16.79%
152g Toasted pecans, coarsely chopped 17.95%
116g Dried sour cherries 13.73%

Method

1. Levain – 9:00 a.m.

Build the liquid levain (everything listed in the Levain Build section above) in the morning and store somewhere around 77ºF – 80ºF ambient. This is a very warm and fast levain but it is definitely fully mature by the time it’s used. The high inoculation percentage, whole wheat flour and warm water/ambient temperature ensure it’s maturation after 3 hours.

2. Autolyse – 11:00 a.m.

Mix all the flour (including buckwheat) and water (reserve 100g water for mix, later) in a bowl until all dry bits are hydrated. Cover bowl and store somewhere warm (around 75-78ºF) for 1 hour.

At this time also toast the pecans in the next step.

3. Toast Pecans – 11:00 a.m.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Spread whole pecans in a single layer on a baking sheet. Once oven is preheated place sheet into oven and toast for about 10 minutes. Rotate the baking sheet after about 5 minutes and keep an eye on the nuts in the last few minutes as they can quickly burn.

The nuts are done when they are slightly browned and have a pleasantly pungent smell. Set aside to cool, then coarsely chop and reserve until needed during Bulk Fermentation.

4. Mix – 12:00 p.m.

Add the called for levain and about half of the reserved water to the mixing bowl. Mix until well combined.

Dump the dough onto the counter and slap and fold the dough (French fold) for about 5-6 minutes, just until the dough starts to show signs of a smooth surface. If you aren’t comfortable with slap/fold method, or don’t like it, you can do stretch and folds in the bowl until the dough tightens up and becomes harder to stretch out and fold over.

Let the dough rest 15 minutes.

When finished slap/fold sprinkle the salt on top of the dough and use the remaining water to help dissolve. Pinch through a few times and fold the dough over itself to help incorporate. Perform a series of stretch and folds in the bowl until the dough absorbs all the added water and comes back together.

Transfer dough to a tub or thick-walled bowl for bulk fermentation.

5. Bulk Fermentation – 12:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

At 78-81ºF ambient temperature bulk fermentation should go for about 3 hours and 30 minutes.

Perform a total of 3 sets of stretch and folds during bulk, spaced out by 30 minutes.

After the second set of stretch and folds add the toasted & chopped pecans and the sour cherries (these can be whole or coarsely chopped). Using a little water on the hands, mix gently into the dough until well incorporated.

I decided to end bulk when I saw the dough in the picture below. You can see the dough is puffy & alive, there are plenty of bubbles on top and just below the surface, and most importantly: the edge where the dough meets the bowl is domed, convex. This is a good sign your dough is strong enough and ready to be divided.sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loaf

6. Divide & Preshape – 4:00 p.m.

Dump the dough from the bulk container to an un-floured work surface. Divide the dough roughly in half and preshape each half into a round.

Let the rounds rest 25 minutes uncovered.sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loaf

7. Shape – 4:25 p.m.

Flour the work surface and the top of each rested round. Working with one at a time, flip a round over onto the floured surface and fold the top half up and over to the middle and the bottom half up and over the recently folded top. You’ll have a long horizontal rectangle sitting in front of you. Turn the rectangle 90º and grab a small portion of the top, pull up and fold over a little bit, pressing down to seal. Take the rolled top and continue to gently roll it downward toward your body with two hands working together. As you do each roll and work your way down the vertical rectangle, use your thumbs to gently press the dough into itself.

sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loafYou can see a video of me performing this shaping method on my Instagram feed (ignore the beginning portion where I fold the sides and top down, only the entire top needs to be folded down and sealed at first).

Once shaped, transfer each to a basket lined with a cotton towel (I like to use these towels when dough has fruit added, much easier to clean) that has been lightly dusted with white rice flour, seam side up.

8. Rest & Proof – 4:50 p.m.

Cover each basket with plastic and then place in the refrigerator at 38ºF for 14-15 hours.

9. Bake – Next Morning: Preheat oven at 6:30 a.m., Bake at 7:30am a.m.

Preheat oven for one hour at 500ºF.

Take out both of the baskets from the fridge and cut a piece of parchment paper to fit over the top, quickly invert each basket onto each piece of parchment. Using a sharp razor blade fastened to a stick (or a lame) score the top of each at a shallow angle to the dough and just deep enough to cut below the top skin of the dough. Start at the top of the oblong loaf and with a single decisive stroke cut from top to bottom with a slight outward bend.

Bake the loaves at 500ºF for 20 minutes with steam, then remove the steaming pans from inside the oven. Bake the loaves for an additional 5 minutes at 500ºF, then turn the oven down to 450ºF and bake for an additional 25 minutes or until done.

I steamed my oven in my usual way, described here in my post on how to steam your home oven for baking.

Conclusion

I’ve worked with fruit and nut mix-ins countless bakes in the past but this one has a little something extra thanks to the buckwheat. Even at such a small percentage it’s beautifully evident in each bite, and to those unfamiliar it hints at something complex and earthy without giving away the answer too easily. I find that pecans and cherries have always been  known to go well together, but the buckwheat is really what unites this bread, adding additional complexity and that haunting flavor I’ve come to really enjoy. This is just an all around tasty bread, one that can be eaten by the slice all on its own — perhaps a little too easily.

Crust

sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loafA wonderful crust to be sure and one that, while not as shiny as my other bakes (probably due to the buckwheat), is splendidly crunchy. I went with a double score for these bakes because I knew they wouldn’t spring open as much as my typical batard, partly because of the hefty ingredients but also because of the lengthy proof. Besides, that double score sure looks awesome.

Some bakers prefer to keep all the cherries and nuts poked into the dough when baked but I don’t bother — I like the outward appearance of these additions even if they get somewhat singed in the process. Poke the cherries and pecans into the dough before baking at your own discretion.

Crumb

sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loafThe crumb in this bread is so incredibly soft and tender, something almost akin to a porridge bread. Almost. The crust did bake up a bit thicker than usual, but by no means too thick, and that’s just fine as it complements the tender interior, providing structure and support. If you’ve read my posts for a while you know one thing for sure, you’ll rarely hear me complain about a crunchy crust.

Taste

sour cherry toasted pecan buckwheat levain @ the perfect loafAs I mentioned earlier, the flavor pairing of buckwheat and cherry is fantastic. The dark red cherries stand up to the earthy buckwheat flavor and the two balance each other. Buckwheat has really become a secret weapon of mine–when I sneak a little in a formula people always comment that there’s “something different and totally delicious in this sourdough.” I like that!

When I add mix-ins to dough I prefer to usually keep it pretty light. I think the percentages I’ve included in this recipe for the toasted pecans and sour cherries are just right: almost every bite results in the discovery of something extra. However, if you prefer more or less just adjust the quantity of each up or down to suit.

I’ve been enjoying this bread heavily toasted with a thick slather of the yellowest butter you can find — that’s all you need.


The crumb is speckled with black marks from the whole grain buckwheat, coarsely littered with sour cherries and toasted pecans, and the crust is nice and craggy just like the old cherry tree I used to climb each day in the summer. Having baked this bread several times now I feel satiated, I scratched that itch to return back to my childhood and, in some way, relived those moments with my favorite tree. Unfortunately the bread will eventually run out but that’s just fine, I can always make this recipe any time I need to take a trip back and relive those red feet, scattered feathers and antsy ants.

Buon appetito!


  1. Seriously, birds have way too big of an advantage when it comes to eating cherries off a tree, something they take FULL advantage of.

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  • Dan

    Hi Maurizio,

    I’ve made many of your recipes, and I’m looking forward to trying this one. For the “High Gluten Bread Flour”, does it make a big difference? I’m not sure I’ve seen it for sale at the shops around here, but I’ll check again.

    thanks, Dan

    • Great to hear that! I like the additional strength the high gluten bread flour provides but it’s not 100% necessary. Use whatever white bread flour you typically use for baking, should be just fine. Happy baking!

  • I’m already thinking of all the sandwiches I could make with this bread recipe! I’ve never tried my hand at making bread, but this recipe is calling my name.

    • It’s super delicious 🙂 Happy baking and have fun with the first bake!

  • Rosa

    Hi , what can use instead of buckwheat? I thought that maybe I can use red hard winter wheat. 😎

    • There’s really no direct substitute for buckwheat but hard wheat would at least give you some heartiness to the bread! I’d suggest going higher than 3%, though, it’s a bit small for you to notice that big of a flavor difference like you would with buckwheat (which is much stronger tasting). Perhaps 10-15% would be a good try!

      • Rosa

        About 81 grams???

        • 10% would be 87g whole wheat, 15% would be 127g.

          • Rosa

            Hi , what are the sizes of the baskets? 😎

            • These batard baskets are about 14″ long. I like a little extra space on the top and bottom to let the dough relax out during the long, cold proof.

              • Rosa

                Thank you 😎

  • Rosa

    testing…..

  • Spencer Broschard

    Hey Maurizio, what size banneton are you using for your batards? Mine is 12″ long, 5 1/2″ wide and 3″ deep. When I’ve used it in the past, my loaves are too small, spread out too far and rise very little.

    • Rosa

      batard baskets are about 14″ long. I like a little extra space on the top and bottom to let the dough relax out during the long, cold proof.

    • Spencer — These ones are 14″ long. I actually like a little extra space on the top and bottom to let the dough relax out. The caveat is you have to shape the dough just tight enough so it doesn’t relax out so much that you compromise rise. The dough doesn’t quite stretch to fit top and bottom, it just kind of relaxes some.

  • Ozzie Gurkan

    Your breads are always so amazing and I have been trying a lot of these recipes. My only issue that I seem to have is the open crumb. The bulk looks amazing, pre shape and shape work quite well which means the hydration is just right, however, I think it consistently gets overproofed. When I bring it out of the fridge about 12 hours later, it is quite jiggly and doesn’t really get the spring. I have measured my fridge with a temp and it doesn’t go below 45. Is that the problem? Should I cut the bulk time short or go with colder water? I can’t wake up any earlier 😉

    • Thanks so much, really appreciate that! 45ºF is pretty warm, yes, I’d cut your final proof time in the fridge by 2-4 hours and see if that helps. It sounds exactly like what you’re thinking: your dough is probably over proofing. Cut that proof and see if you eek out more spring and retain a little more structure in your dough!

  • Jimmie Lee Lookingbill Zwissle

    I only have KA bread flour and 100 % whole wheat flour plus the buckwheat. Would this work? If so what measurements would I use?

    • Sure! Use a 50/50 mix of the KA Bread Flour and WW for the Type 85 I call for. For the rest of the flour I have listed (the malted bread flour and the high gluten flour) use 100% KA Bread Flour.

      Happy baking!

  • Rebecca Metraux Canna

    Hey Maurizio! I don’t have access to Malted Flours like your recipe calls for. What do you think of adding diastatic malt powder to the mix? If so, what percentage? Thanks in advance!

    Also…. I typically use KA Bread Flour (which I believe is around 14% protein). In this formula, you call for Malted Bread Flour and High Gluten Bread Flour, which you have listed as being about 13.5% protein. Should I be incorporating some AP flour into my mix (for this recipe as well as others) if I am primarily using KA Bread Flour?

    I’ve been trying to get my hands on some other flours… looked into getting some Central Milling flours, but the shipping would cost more than the flour itself! And I haven’t had too much luck with locally milled flours, though I think once the weather warms up, I’ll be able to find some at a farmer’s market.

    • Not a problem, adding diastatic malt yourself is the way to go (I do this often as well, especially when using fresh milled flour). I would add no more than 2% of the recipe. You could start at 1% and see how it looks/tastes.

      First, note that KA Bread Flour actually is malted flour (look at the ingredients on the package). You could use 100% KA Bread Flour if you’d like (for both parts of my formula) but I would do a mix. I’d use KA AP for the “Malted Bread Flour” I call for here and KA Bread Flour for the High Gluten I call for. KA AP actually has a pretty high protein percentage so it will work well.

      Sorry, this is getting kind of confusing 🙂

      Yes, Central Milling can be expensive to ship. KA flour is a really solid choice for sure, I’d stick with that and look for some local options to compliment!

      Hope that helps, enjoy!

  • Rosa

    Hi, I found the light and dark Buckwheat,
    So which one is it or does it matter please get back to me soon thank you.

    • Go with the dark buckwheat, that is most likely whole grain buckwheat which I am using here.

      • Rosa

        Thank you 😎

    • Rosa

      Oh and one more question, where can I get those large orange bowls that you use when your dough is rising..😉😯

  • Meghan

    Hi there! I live in a crazy hot and humid place (Singapore!! 86F and 70% humidity on a dry and sunny day) and I’m looking to try baking sourdough. I guess I can’t rely on time cues because of how fermentation is sped up in these kinds of conditions… how should I check when the dough has completed each stage of the process and is ready for the next step? (e.g. how do I tell when the autolyse is finished, or when the dough is rested and ready to retard, etc) Do you have any suggestions for tailoring sourdough recipes/techniques to hot and humid conditions? (I read somewhere that bulk fermentation can be done in the fridge. Or should I cram the suggested number of set of stretch-and-folds into a shorter time frame? Perhaps I should use cold water for the dough?) Thank you!

    • Hey, Meghan! All of those things you suggested will help in your environment. You can use the fridge for part of bulk fermentation to keep the dough cool, use cold water for your mix and you’ll likely have to shorten the timeline for most of the steps (I don’t usually like to go less than 3 hours for bulk fermentation, though). I know bakers who live in really warm climates will even use ice water to get that dough close to their target dough temp (78F in this case).

      I also know that some bakers will use added salt in their levain/starter to help slow down and temper fermentation. If you find your levain/starter moves too aggressively you could use some of the sale in your dough mix in the levain to slow it down.

      As far as cues for each step: have a look at each of the recipes here at my website! I try to explain when I transition to each step in just about every recipe (and have pictures to help). I also try to give the reasoning behind why I do the things I do, for example, why I might do a longer autolyse or a shorter one.

      I hope these suggestions help!

  • Rosa

    I made the two loaves and did it with the pan and towel clothes and it turn out absolutely wonderful…
    P.S I also did the slap and fold👍 😚😎

    • Fantastic, thanks for the feedback Rosa! Really happy to hear these turned out so well for you 🙂

  • Rosa

    Oh and one more question, where can I get those large orange bowls that you use when you do your stretch and folds ..😉

    • I get my large ceramic bowls from Heath Ceramics in San Francisco.